• #insideout oi oi @cosstores and @currentelliott - who made your clothes??? @fash_rev
  • Last @designerjumble outfit of the day - @saundersstudio jacket, Betty Jackson jacket, Antithesis shirt, @fromsomewhereuk top, Loewe skirt, Luella bag
  • More brilliant @designerjumble pieces @prada top and skirt, Antony Price parachute dress @rupertsanderson shoes
  • Made In Britain pieces by @jameslonglondon and @topshop Who made your clothes? #InsideOut @fash_rev
  • Amazing pieces from a 1,500 collection of Hannalore Smart, widow of Circus King Billy Smart Jr... Alaia,  Gaultier, Comme, Issey Miyake, Prada... All going into @designerjumble soon with some on auction!! Gaultier corset, vintage customised jeans, Prada shoes, CdG skirt - very Meadham Kirchhoff SS13!

I'm glad that the Dressed up for Summer videos gave some of you some much-needed fashion chuckle time but despite all of the little spoofs and skits that Mademoiselle Agn√®s gets up to, at the core of it, serious points about fashion are being raised and in that particular series, she does try to question and answer in some part "Where are the next generation of French designers?".  My favourite parts of those videos were probably the bits where she takes up this quest, going round all the showrooms, tradeshows etc and investigating the new generation (BIG UP Anthony Vaccarello who was also featured, albeit his jacket and swimsuits were given more credit than his 'discourse').  Like I said, it's all very deja-vu-ey for me as I too went traipsing around the Marais hunting out all the showrooms but one I did miss was Heal.  

I wrote about Heal last season when they made a very sculptural start that involved a certain lobster dress that made a most striking talking point.  From Mademoiselle Agn√®s's show, I learnt that Heal apparently had lost sponsorship for S/S 10 which may go some way to explaining why for S/S 10 they have considerably toned down the amount of handiwork that makes dresses cost around the ¬£1500 mark.  Or perhaps they are consciously going for a more commercial collection that will help them with the buyers and you can't get much more commercial-friendly than stripes.  Yarsh.  New French label.  Does stripes.  It's a win-win situation!  

Without meaning to diminish Heal's stripes though, they haven't just ploughed through a French cliche and bunged some Breton stripe on some tees.  They are a gradiated watercolour stripe and they are just one element of an entire collection which altogether makes me think Heal are trying to put some technicolour into early 20th century swimwear and bathing suits.  

Vintswim1Vintswim2

Vintswim5
Vintswim3 Vintswim4

The illustrations that Alice, one half of Heal is reponsible for, still features heavily on the pieces, as well as their investigation into attractive exo-skeletons.  However, the shapes that Heal have created for S/S 10 combined with the warped op-art stripes makes me think of a revved up version of the bathing suits of yesteryear.  There's also an element that reminds m of Louise Goldin's juicy S/S 08 collection except with less emphasis on knitwear and more on sculpted shapes as well as tropical motifs that be seen in the piped shells and banana leaf applique.  All in all, Heal may be down on moolah for the season but they've made a go of contributing to a) the new wave of French designers and b) the activewear reinvention and reinterpretation that S/S 10 is full of.

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Healss102 Healss102a

Healss103

Healss104

Healss105 Healss105a

Healss106 Healss107

Healss108 Healss109

Comments (24)

  1. Maria says:

    I really, truly love those five first pictures!

  2. I love the creepster girl holding the trophy. She looks like shes putting a curse on the photographer, sweet.

  3. tanya says:

    new bubble tunes :)
    thanks susie!
    haha after seeing heal in Agnes’ video on your blog i tried to find more info about them on the internet and when i had almost given up on finding their site i googled them and your writeup about them last season on stylebubble came up so i’d pretty much done a full circle by coming back to your blog. ah it always seems like youre the first off the mark susie

  4. KD says:

    I really, really dig it! This collection is, without a doubt, more commercial, but no less charming and awesome. Those striped Ts with graphics on them are truly THE T’s for summer. The dresses and skeletal echoes are really superb! All around fantastic collection.

  5. Love those vintage pictures – the girl with the trophy looks a little freaky though..!

  6. Eli says:

    The vintage suits are beeeeeeutiful. I wish I could live a perpetual state of vintage bathingsuitness

  7. Erika says:

    Cool! I really dig the Firstn piece with the flamingo.

  8. walkthesand says:

    I am in LOVE with that blue jumpsuit. Awesome. An amazing array of pieces.
    x
    http://walkthesand.blogspot.com

  9. moi says:

    The price points for this fall were staggering!

  10. wow.. this is called state of the art. So beautiful women wear presented here..
    Hats off buddy

  11. Hannah says:

    So, sorry, this has got absolutely nothing to do with your post, but could you do more of the challenges like your one where you had to have loads of diff. colours in one outfit? Great sentence, I know lol.
    But see, last time I missed out on doing that and it looked fun. So if you could, that would be really cool. OR you could just ignore this..

  12. Clara says:

    Amazing pics!
    i loved.
    xx

  13. Annie says:

    I LOVE this, NEED the first pic ;)

  14. jennine says:

    i really love the aquatic nature of this collection… the pleats are amazing!

  15. Those are awesome. Those are clothes that need no help from accessories.
    -meream

  16. GG says:

    The sea colors and the red hats reminded me of ‘The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou’. Cute detail.

  17. @ Hannah
    Dear fun is in a bit chit chat related to same interests… What you think??

  18. Ian(longing for vinyl records for make a comeback) says:

    I always enjoy pictures of how we used to dress. These days we can reveal too much so much that it doesn’t look sexy.
    Ian

  19. Carla says:

    thanks again for posting the videos, was a really good watch.

  20. Maria Joe says:

    nice collection design you have share with us. I like the red one with fancy style it is really awesome regarding the design point of view.. really nice idea to share with us.

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