>> It's always a 'new-name' fest at Blow PR's press day and glad that they took on representing a) Shao Yen Chen, a knitwear genius that blew me away at the CSM MA show… and b) Rob Goodwin, whose shoes I couldn't stop looking at at the LCF MA show back in Feb. A graduate of LCF Cordwainers, his MA collection was shown on the catwalk alongside another designer but my eyes were fully focused on the clearly-hand crafted shoes, boots and helmets. Goodwin worked in TV for a long time but then decided to turn to shoes and whilst studying, caught the eye of Terry de Havilland and whilst he primarily specialises in shoes, he's open to creating leather objects that stray outside of any wearable forms. By applying hand dying and hand stitching techniques to his leather working, I see Goodwin venturing down an artisanal shoe route that not many shoe designers venture down. His MA collection here was inspired by an imaginary riotous cross-culture ball; a Venetian masked ball that takes place in the Congo dubbed a "Kongo Bacchanal". He's taken the Margiela nail heel a step further with the nails clusters as well as creating a new kind of studding hardware on the wedges. I'd like to take his inspiration theme further by concocting a half-Venetian, half-Congolese hybrid outfit, finishing off with a heel of nails of course and a beaked face.
April 21, 2010