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“I like the idea that something as conservative and traditional as a cameo brooch could become subversive in the right hands. From here we referenced my acid colour blocked SS09 sportswear influenced collection and added old-fashioned elements like pointelle cardigans and mother of pearl laurel brooches for branding. I also mixed sport jersey with lurex piqué and brocade cottons to create a clash of sport and traditional 50’s couture elements in dynamic but recognisably 50’s colours such as eau de nil and peach” РRichard Nicoll, 2010

When you add all the above to the main instigator – Ken Russell‚Äôs iconic portraits of 1950s teddy girls – you get Richard Nicoll's first collection for Fred Perry's Laurel Wreath collection which all in all is a dynamite combination.  I vaguely remember Tweeting from a Fred Perry press day how excited I was to see Nicoll's sketches for this collaboration and him re-iterating his influences and seeing the final results beautifully photographed by Paul Weatherell.  Nicoll has injected so many delicately balanced contrasts into one collection that makes it seem he has gone the extra mile to ensure this isn't yet another sportswear/designer or high/low collaboration.  I've always found the way designers such as Raf Simons, Ann Sofie-Back and Jessica Ogden have played with the Fred Perry codes and I think this Laurel Wreath collection might top it yet… especially since it made me compelled to whip up a collage because ALL of those things that Nicoll listed plus some extra fanciful images just seem far too delectable not to illustrate… 

I love that Nicoll has re-referenced his own work, focusing on the colour-blocking of his S/S 09 collection which I forgot that I was bonkers for at the time…

Laurelrichardnicoll

The resulting collection has inflections of the tomboyish side of the 50s that references teddy girls and beat movement chicks rather than house-wives or Hollywood icons.  It's an underbellied take on the decade which of course suits Fred Perry well with its own association with mods and skinheads/suedeheads.  Selfishly this all translates to silhouettes and pieces that distill the powdery pastel colours of 50s haute couture without the New Look shapes that I have never been able to wear.  I also love that delicate fabrics like pointelle (which always reminds me of my old Damart thermal vests) and lurex have been thrown into the mix when cotton jersey normally reigns supreme.  

The collection goes on sale on Monday 10th Jan 24th January in Fred Perry stores and the lurex pieces will definitely be my first point of enquiry.  May even have to find a cameo brooch just to see if I can subvert the context. 

**EDIT** Due to 'Computer says Noooo' error, the collection won't be going in stores until 24th January. 

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Comments (23)

  1. Sister Wolf says:

    OH NO, I love this!

  2. I LOVE ALL THE PINK! Such gorgeous images!!! The Fred Perry collabs have been off the charts hotttt! I went through a period where I only wore Fred Perry’s track jacket, EVERY DAY For like a year!!! hahaa And had my mom and sisters wearing them too! They are ROCKIN and still my fav hangout jacket!
    kisses
    xoThe Beckerman Girls
    http://www.BeckermanBitePlate.com

  3. speachless

    stunning

  4. Anu says:

    The colours are just so subtle, but wow :o :o

  5. margief says:

    i used to be obsessed with cameo anything i would buy anything with those little heads on. I think this fred perry collection is too average for me, its nice but too prim and definitely nothing i havent seen before.
    margief
    x
    http://www.margieheartsclothes.blogspot.com

  6. Terri says:

    The pearled sweaters are luscious.
    If YOU are interested in subversive cameos, check out Meg’s Ragged Edge on Etsy. (And, no, that’s not my shop)

  7. lyrebirdgully says:

    How wearable and enticing is this stuff, eh? basic styles made new and fresh with new fabrics, new interesting designs and new colour combinations. And it’s always great to see scarves and jewellery (any jewellery full stop!) Thanks for introducing me to a whole new style – the Teddy girls – they all look fantastic. Who knew that indie style existed back then? Though I can’t really wear this look myself, I’d love to see it taken up on the streets.

  8. ttv says:

    That’s so lovely and beautiful. I like that kinda style.

  9. Burdastyle.com’s article on Teddy Girls is really nice, but I like the images you used more. I love her hair- how it’s slick on one side and curly on the other. It gives her just enough of a softness to counter the harshness of the menswear. Love it.

  10. Christine says:

    These pink pieces are amazing. Makes me realize why I love the color so much!

  11. Erin says:

    Hi, I just wanted to say that your blog is amazing!!! Don’t ever stop, please :)

  12. These images took my breath away!
    I really don’t know what to say but this is a good thing:)
    ‚ô•‚ô•
    Ciao Ciao Bella Donna
    Check out my Give Away @
    http://hotfreezingfashion.blogspot.com/
    Sharing Lots of Love n Fun!
    ‚ô•‚ô•

  13. callahan says:

    i absolutly love what he has done to the famous logo with the pearls! adore the collection, definatly a date to put in the diary. x
    http://peaceandloveand.blogspot.com/

  14. rosesareblue says:

    I LOVE this blog, so inspirational, thanks!
    Love the images here too.
    kisses x
    http://roses-are-blue.blogspot.com/

  15. Bayb says:

    I love these images and this collection ! Wise and arrogant..
    http://badaboub.blogspot.com

  16. edoardo says:

    These girls are so chic. fred Perry is a very particular brand that sometimes is really sportly and sometiems really chic. I find mroe elegant, bon chic bon genre (to use a famous phrase), Fred Perry than Lacoste (even if the lacoste director is now at Herm√®s…OMG!!) that is really boring!
    http://fashiondoesntexist.blogspot.com/

  17. susie_bubble says:

    Margief: I like the primness actually – not reinventing the wheel but I like the pairings of the colours/fabrics with the Fred Perry classics…
    Terri: I’ll definitely check it out!
    Edoardo: I agree with you about Fred Perry vs. Lacoste – I guess it’s the subculture thing that I’m attracted to in Fred Perry. Lacoste is slightly more preppy and I suppose populist…

  18. Lucy says:

    mmm! Really like these looks, they’re so clean and dainty yet slightly rebellious.I like how you can see all the slick details, the dotted wreaths etc Liike! And I loved Nicolls collection too! also eyeing up those pretty pinks together.. i really wanted to get more of those tones in my summer wardrobe but hey, next summer!
    xxxx

  19. Pink is stunning, love these so much.

  20. This is perhaps the Fred Perry collab that fits in the most with the original designers point of view. I love the fabrics and textile finishes that were used its really the truest idea of a collaboration in the whole Fred Perry x designer collab band wagon.

  21. Teodora says:

    Did not know much about Fred Perry. Thank you for opening my eyes. Such a class and elegance.
    Teodora
    http://www.teodoraslookbook.com

  22. gorgeous! really elegant photos.
    garret

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