• Spot the fake in Mong Kok malls. @christopherkanestudio HK style
  • Hello Birdy
  • Just got lashes @paperself - ed at @openingceremony #openingceremonytokyo 1st year anniversary party
  • Mega cute stuff from new brand @littlesunnybiteyoppy
  • Cute clutch from @peachesandcream_xxx new recommendation thanks to @reishito !!!

I did say that there were very few womenswear designers right that showed as part of the LCF MA show that played out at the grand Raphael Gallery at the V&A.   All throughout, I was mentally ticking each graduate off in my head going "One for Steve… another one for Steve… ANOTHER one for Steve…".  It was almost enough to make me defect over to menswear but Steve has also got to the best of them with his profiles of graduates like Matteo Molinari and Yan Liang. 

Still, surely there'd be SOMETHING for me.  The phrase 'Throw me a bone' gives an inkling to Dinu Bodiciu's MA collection which at first sight to me seemed to reference a visceral quality of the human anatomy from the skin-hued flattened mohair textures gradiating to the sanguine bloody hues that come up as a bit of a shock. 

"Broadly described, the starting point of my collection was the thin boundary between illusion and reality, the imperciptible transition from reality to illusion. Reflected in a mirror, our body is flattened and what we take for granted as a true image of ourselves, it is actually an illusion. This phenomenon is even more interesting since mirror has a crucial role in shaping our identities and mediating our relation  with the world. I became very interested in the effect of the mirror on our bodies: the way it turns 3-dimensional shapes into 2 dimensional. Playing with perception, I gave to my collection a certain flatness quality."

Weirdly enough, whilst there is this flat n' matte effect created by a sublime choice of fabrics that were purposely chosen to emphasise these 'flattened' shapes, the 3-D curvature, worked into the jackets in particular as well as the interlocking petal shapes in a few of the dresses were also very apparent.  Somehow the exaggerated shapes when balanced with these fibrous textures seems to tone the curves down rendering them organic looking rather than being superfluous in shape. 

I almost lost out Bodiciu to the 'other side' as he had a moment of wanting to switch to menswear (I wonder if there's a movement within MA fashion students that is propelling this shift to menswear) but for now, he's keen to experiment within womenswear.  If he were to explore other avenues, it seems he also has a dab hand in intriguing millinery too as he made these straw half mask, half-hats that blend so seamlessly with his clothes

LCF MA Designer 10 Web-0190 Number 3

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LCF MA Designer 10 Web-0187 Number 2

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I also have to thank Bodiciu in a way as this passage in red came on quite suddenly in the show and in a way has partially cured my iffy relationship with red, through shock tactics simply by being so comparatively bold when following the nude and beige tones.  There's also something to be said about this nubbly wool texture and this particular shade of scarlet that works together quite beautifully. 

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LCF MA Designer 10 Web-0204 Number 6

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(Backstage photography by Morgan O'Donovan, Lookbook image credits – Photographer: Christopher Agius Burke, Make-up / Hair style: Kayoko Kishi, Model: Leontine / First Model Management Agency)

Comments (19)

  1. Nana says:

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  2. So nice to see the sketches and then the real thing. I don’t like the headpieces. Not only esthetically displeasing, but as a feminist seeing women’s mouth covered rubs me the wrong way!

  3. The hats are very interesting and intriguing!

  4. chinadoll says:

    I absolutely love it, the colours are amazing. Personally I really like the mask/hats. Like you said, the whole collection is very human – the colours and the shapes, and I think the face/mouth coverings add a touch of violent sensuousness and mystery which bring a feminine aggression into the already very feminine aesthetic. xx

  5. Felicia says:

    I love these looks ! Just beautiful and creative ! http://www.felifashion.wordpress.com

  6. Tassos P says:

    Hahaha, none has understood the hats meaning yet??
    Speak no Evil, see no Evil, hear no Evil!. Nice idea and fine clothing.
    Thanks for sharing!

  7. callahan says:

    I can honestly say Ive never seen anything like this before, 100% such a huge talent to even begin this thought process x
    http://peaceandloveand.blogspot.com/

  8. Rossella says:

    wonderful pictures
    let me know your thoughts on my new blog entry and follow me at:
    http://mycouturediaries.blogspot.com/

  9. X Alex says:

    The shapes are quite amazing! Thanks Tassos for pointing out the ‘Speak no evil, see no evil and hear no evil’ part! That adds depth to the collection! I like the fifth photo though where the light from behind the models brings out the texture of the garment. Ironically, it makes the models look somewhat not human.

  10. winnsome says:

    hey suse
    cheers for putting up sketchbook stuff it really makes a difference to me as a design student to see different peoples creative process at work :)
    THAAANNKKSS!!
    xx
    http://winnsomesmile.blogspot.com

  11. Anna says:

    How amazing! I’ve never seen anything like that before! Absolutely stunning.

  12. thak you for posting this and for the inspiration as always!
    http://passionlessfashion.wordpress.com

  13. safra says:

    it’s funny, for once, i found a designer i’m not keen on. something about these shapes along with the texture just don’t jive.

  14. tricia r says:

    These are interesting, they sort of remind me of ‘The Predator’..

  15. If they think they are going to win over us by refusing to make any concession, they are mistaken~

  16. Anya says:

    I love seeing design in stages: from prelimenary sketches to the final result. I love your color choices and choice of fabrics. I also love the strong concept behind it. However,as a professional milliner, I simply had to stop and tell you that this head pieces are made with several very obvious mistakes. This mistakes are contributing to the obvios imperfections on the surface of the head gear and will contibute in the future to so-called short life time span of the hat. Having all this saifd, overall you have done fantastic job! :-)))

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