"We have developed a keen interest in adding new dimension through textured and tactile dimension."
This statement about Ostwald Helgason's new A/W 11-12 collection is music to my ears and looking at the collection itself, it was an immediate case of wanting to touch everything. Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason as a duo contribute their respective interests of fine art and technology into a melting pot to produce collections that over the past few seasons have shifted away from print over to texture. The mohair of two seasons ago (still obsessing over this particular dungaree checked dress...) combined with the sheer and diaphanous qualities of the denim blue ridden S/S 11 collection have graduated into this new A/W 11-12 collection that is the most texturous of theirs to date. Colour gradiation that gives the effect of spilled ink, is worked into fluffy mohair jumpers, tufted polka dot shirts and cob-webby knits where the black creeps into the flesh that is revealed from underneath. It's a clever way of adding yet another dimension to the textures and making them all the more alluring. What only be described as a spongey nude mesh material works effectively when blocked with solid trims of red and yellow. The key to making this riot of texture and tactile surfaces work is that the shapes are kept clean and accessible. You can deal with this amount of fibrous and texturous detailing when they're rendered in the loose blazer, the easy wide-legged trousers and shirt dresses. This sort of easy-going surface detailing contributes to the wider presence of texture, that is around for this autumn winter season but in a way that seems slightly easier to grasp...

























