J J.S. Lee is no longer a wee little secret.  Under BFC's New Gen scheme, she successfully raised her profile with a show in the Portico Rooms last season that seemed to get all-round unanimous praise with those lower suspended leather backpacks still etched into my brain.  I was quite tickled to find that Jackie Jung Sun Lee (just in case you were wondering what the name stood for…) was heading over to Singapore for the Blueprint tradeshow to present her first resort collection namely because I'd be there also to discover it.   I'm not a hardcore resort/pre-collection follower despite their retail preeminence but I find it fascinating that the move towards designing and producing four collections a year has filtered down to young designers, which makes me question whether there is this necessity for the speed and quantity of product (the Miu Miu Musing discussion last month also addressed this issue).  Still, J J.S. Lee presented such a compelling collection that this didn't give the impression that this was resort filler at all and so I see this as a natural extension and introduction to what she'll come up with for S/S 12.  

Jackie has made an impression with her invisible lines outlining collars, cuffs and seams with handstitching and raised surfaces.  This is something that lingers on in this resort 2012 collection but there's been an overall shift towards softening her squeaky clean and minimal aesthetic.  It seemed apt in hot, sticky Singapore that her collection felt more free and without restraint.  Primarily, pleats are her main weapon of choice in this collection creating wafting movement that was lovely to see at her show at Blueprint in skirts that reveal thin layers that vary in length and in trousers that are wide as can be.  She's also gone for a deep inverted box pleat shape on the front of trousers, a volume-adding device that I've been obsessed with since seeing Phillip Lim 3.1's A/W 11-12 collection.  The pleats are either allowed to go loose to create flow and movement or they were tightly kept in place on structured jackets and shift dresses to create a texturised version of vertical and optical stripes.

There are *gasp* prints in J J.S. Lee's collection achieved through the tactile texture of navy flocking on white as well as flocked white-on-white polka dots.  Add houndstooth and op-art-esque checks into the mix and you wonder how Jackie got so many different prints into one collection and still make it cohesive, considering she previously hadn't dabbled with them at all.  I slightly more feminine incarnation of J J.S. Lee.  It's like Jackie has wriggled her design limbs, loosening her ruler-like precision to allow flashes of coral pink and fun polka dots to creep in.  Still, look at the openwork seaming creating tiny strokes in down trouser legs and jackets as well as a few of those lingering collars and it's safe to say that there are still recognisable elements that have marked J J.S. Lee out at this early stage in her career.   

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Comments (19)

  1. Shini says:

    The low hung backpack is still etched in mine as well, I think she has huge potential, well living it now huh?

  2. emma says:

    Those are some really stunning pieces

  3. Sumo says:

    i actually really inspired by the details
    thank you for posting this :)

  4. I love your blog and how you always have good content. I find a lot of inspiring things here. And this resort collection, such stunning skirts.
    http://carolinascouture.blogspot.com/

  5. Very Interesting most of them look three outfits in one skirt, dress, and pants. Great Dress Give Away At CopperEtiquette.com

  6. some gorgeous pieces! I have those tan topshop shoes also and the pictures just prove to me how much they match anything! love the white pleated skirt in the first picture the most!
    http://myheadandwardrobe.blogspot.com/

  7. Ali says:

    I like all the prints! especially the grey/black oversized houndstooth and the t-shirt with the tan/white checkerboard print. interesting find!

  8. Yowza! I got to see the show in London and totally loved it. This collection is so ethereal and insanely beautiful! I love the creamy coloured pleated dresses… so perfectly wearable yet incredibly stunning. Really love this post! xx

  9. Caroline says:

    I adore a good pleat as long as it is not “sexy schoolgirl pleat”. J J.S Lee maneuver the pleat in such a good way that maybe only Issey Miyake did before her with his Pleats Please collection.

  10. Britt+Whit says:

    wow I love the cut of all of these! great photos/post! Just read an interview you gave on the Brown blog and had to come check you out!
    love from San Francisco,
    Britt+Whit

  11. Zeta says:

    Beautiful collection so stilish and romantic.I’d love to have every single item! I have J J. S.Lee tights in black I think it was collabaration with hosiery brand Tabio.

  12. Lauren says:

    phwoaarrr!! LOVING the pleats, chiffon and wide flare pants! amazing details, very chic and bold collection!
    thanks for sharing :)
    x Lauren
    youronlyblackswan.blogspot.com

  13. Olga Walker says:

    I love the designs you have shown here and my favourite is the little cremy white boxy jacket with the lovely caramel coloured pleated pants:):) you know even as an older woman there are still things that we can wear without looking like try-hards:):) and I love it…so thank you for sharing.
    Olga from http://revedoa@blogspot.com

  14. Love your blog… really nice pics and the details are so good in a lot of pictures!!!! Fashion fashionnn….!!
    mertxehernandez.blogspot

  15. belt buckles says:

    I love the pleated skirts so sophisticated! your blog rocks :-)

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