I did say that I was going to delve deeper into Andreas Murkudis' spanking new store at Potsdamer Strasse, replacing the beloved Mitte location,where it just got a little overly-frequented for Murkudis' tastes. The lure of an ex-printed press with over 1,000 sq meters to play with, proved too irresistable for this pioneering Berlin retailer and so he proceeded to gut the space out to transform it into this contemplative (the second time I've used this word today…) shopping haven with the help of architects Pierre Jorge Gonzalez and Judith Haase.
You don't realise how much of a luxury space is until you're confronted with a lot of it that is undisturbed by dividing walls. From the outside, you can peer in through the floor to celing windows and pretty much see everything. Not that Murkudis has gone and stuffed the store silly which he could easily do. There aren't many, MANY rails or lots of infrastructures or installations to navigate around. What You See is What You Get works for site editors and it works for this space too. All the better to showcase product of course and at the moment of course, Andreas Murkudis gets to take pride in hosting the Dries Van Noten custom dress project, which I'm SERIOUSLY considering getting stuck into. Yes, that's a EUR1,080 dress. I've become one of those odious people who say things like "It's an investment piece…" to detract from the ridiculous notion of spanking that much money on a dress.
Dries dress aside, Andreas Murkudis of course offers SO much more by way of clothing, furniture and other types of product that fall in line with his philosophy of choosing things that smack strongly of quality.
You come to notice that Murkudis has a bit of an OCD complex with having things arranged in colour order in multiples. We both seem to share a love of seeing things in Caran D'Ache colouring pencil colour order. Hopefully he doesn't grapple with colour ordering like I did as a child – is olive green a darker shade than apple green and should it go near the blues or near the greys – these things were confuuuuusing damnit.
Andreas Murkudis' brother Kostas Murkudis needs no introduction and this 143 colour dress project is still an ongoing and popular one. It fits perfectly into Murkudis' love of rails of gradiating colour and has such impressive visual effect that I'd be tempted to stop customers from depleting the shades just so I could keep the rainbow fully intact.
Furniture and lighting feel more like installations in this bigger space, although everything you see is for sale. These LED-filled ropes by Christian Haas looked amazing in person, suspended from the ceiling.
Like the Dries project, other designers who have worked with Andreas Murkudis have created exclusives for the store that include this beautiful wooden jewellery box by Saskia Diaz housing her jewellery.
…or this Margiela cuff that has been fashioned out of a leather shoe sole.
Currently the store is ushering in pre-fall but older pieces still linger such as these Pringle x Kostas Murkudis (Andreas Murkudis enthusiastically supports his brother's design collaborations and ventures in his store) knitwear pieces, a take on the classic twinset as part of Pringle's 195 project. This isn't ANY leather-panelled jumper. This is a KOSTAS MURKUDIS leather-panelled jumper. See what I did there? The point is, the leather was super super soft…
Here's another stellar Kostas Murkudis piece….
I've already copped a good feel of Celine pre-fall in Dover Street Market and yes, this mixed Prince of Wales check coat is still the absolute bedrock of the collection.
All this talk of the Murkudis brothers led me to take a peek at Kostas Murkudis' new A/W 11-12 collection which will undoubtedly be going into Andreas' store. It varies between heavy and light textures with sheepskin adding bulk and weight to the sombre and utilitarian pieces but then silk tulle comes in to lighten the collection. Weirdly the gathered silk tulle that reveals the body underneath remind me a little of the imagined undergarments that costumists love to insert into the raunchy bits of The Tudors. I always used to doubt the authenticity of whether a transparent tulle tunic that ruffled around the neck would indeed be worn as some sort of Elizabethan equivalent to the negligee. Anyhow, that's just a pondering tangent. Here in Kostas Murkudis' collection, the pieces are there to create a striking contrast with the heavy sheepskin vests and coats as well as provide a more sensual slant to the proceedings.