The exhuberance that London Fashion Week has carried over into Milan where I'm starting to scream for S/S 12 to come faster, especially as it's baking hot out here. I got all hot and bothered rushing into D&G as I had a bit of a nightmare with my luggage getting here and it was also a bumfight getting in. Milan immediately told me to chill though, as unlike LFW where shows started fairly close to as stated, D&G started 40 minutes late and we were given cooling refreshments beforehand.
Despite this D&G S/S 12 collection being their last one as a standalone brand (it's to be amalgamated into their mainline in the future), they did go out with quite the scarfy bang. Anything of course involving foulard scarfiness is going to rock my boat. Despite there being about a gazillion references that this collection has hijacked from – 90s Versace, old Hermes prints etc – I still came away going, I'll totally hit this stuff up (when it lands on Yoox.com – and it's precisely that full price D&G which bordered too close to Dolce & Gabanna's mainline is what partially triggered the decision to shut the label down). Even the more references to more recent scarf-based collections – A/W 11-12 Comme des Garcons, Marni's own Foulard collection, Herm√®s' J'Aime Mon Carr√© and slightly further back Clements Ribeiro's Scarfmania project – isn't a deterrant to the fact that D&G honed in on a vibrant point with their many configurations of how scarves can be turned into attire and accessories.
Despite lack of core originality, it was the energy of the whole shebang – the styling, the specific placement of prints, and the MORE is MORE attitude of it all – that made it so utterly convincing. I should be thinking that foulards have been hackneyed to death but there was something in D&G's treatment of the scarf prints that didn't make me think "Pffft…. one could raid a vintage store and come out with a similar effect…" (althought the thrift store version of D&G is an attainable route…). Like I said, I'll certainly be hitting it up two seasons down the line when the stuff floods Yoox. Or perhaps, with the collection being its last, there'll be a collectability about it all, in a similar way to how Tao by Comme des Garcons' stuff is now nowhere to be found even in the most obscure of designer consignment stores in Tokyo. In which case, I'll be sniffing around Sloane/Old Bond Street wondering when/where this scarfy fix will drop in January.