• Thanks to @mrstreetpeeper for tip off about designer sale at top of Times Square. Scored this Junya Watanabe jacket for £150!!! #bargain
  • Insta thank you to @andotherstories and @mrstreetpeeper for putting a bit of spring in my step
  • Retro Hong Kong caff interior at Matchbox Cafe
  • Spot the fake in Mong Kok malls. @christopherkanestudio HK style
  • Hello Birdy

There were two awesome parties going on Saturday night.  One was down in my hotel lobby at the Tribeca Grand.  The other was in my head, a continual buzz of high after seeing a trio that had transplanted themselves to Milk Made.

For those not familiar with New York Fashion Week's schedule structure.  Basically you have all the razzy dazzy shows up at the Lincoln Centre, a scattering of them dotted around galleries in Chelsea, a few off site shows in wildly downtown/uptown locations and then a concentration of cool happening at Milk Studios, what was formerly known as Mac Milk is now rebranded as Milk Made schedule.  It's also the place where I happen to spend most of my NYFW week because season after season, they welcome up and coming designers into their fold and provide them with the infrastructure to put on a show or a presentation.  You end up with a mix of semi-established, up and coming as well as static accessories designers showing their wares.  It's a lot of bang for your buck basically.   

On Saturday, Milk Made welcomed two new designers into their circle, both from out of town, not that it matters a jot.  This is New York of course, city of opportunity and new beginnings.  Calla from Paris (originally from Canada), Ostwald Helgason from London (originally from Iceland and Germany) join Dean Quinn, ex-resident of London (originally from Ireland) to form a trio of out-of-towners that together made my night.  Search all of them on the sidebar to the right, and ye will find multiple posts on all of them dating back to the early days of Style Bubble when images were a lot smaller and words peppered with one too many exclamation mark. 

Still, I feel like reverting to bad habits!!!!!!!!  I was well and truly excited to see all of them evolve and excite the crowd in New York.  The openness of the presentations basically means anybody who's vaguely interested can walk in and check it out, so there was a lot of raw enthusiasm with people bouncing from one room to the other on the eight floor. 

…………………………………………………………………………………………..

First up was Calla, whose feminine and abstracted digital prints I've always had a soft spot for.  She hasn't strayed too far from that territory and if anything the Leith Clark's styling accentuated the girlish charm of Calla Haynes's print work which this season distorted wood grains and granite flecks so that they almost looked like florals from afar or torrid ink blots on wet paper.  The wood grain background in the set, which also looked like a silk moire (a fabric which she has successfully used in the past) really boosted the static presentation and made you want to step right into this candy pink corner, mixing and matching Calla's prints.  They work in tandem with one another or as solid monochramtic print too and with simple dresses, trousers and covetable items like a shearling biker jacket, adding to Calla's signature built-in bustier dress, this was a more than competent "Hello" to the New York crowd. 

IMG_7205

IMG_7207

IMG_7211

IMG_7212

IMG_7215

IMG_7218

IMG_7223

IMG_7228

IMG_7224

IMG_7235

…………………………………………………………………………………………..

Arguably, Dean Quinn's presentation caused the most fuss with the least number of silhouettes.  Thirteen dresses that have reduced his eye from detailing from the overt to the subtle (see my early posts of Dean Quinn's graduate work and you shall find a giant leap from then and now).  Zippers were the central motif here and gave the silk crepe dresses an energy, to take away any notions of mere red carpet material (although, I'm sure Quinn's work will find their way on to some starlet or another soon).  Apparently, his S/S 12 collection has been flying off the racks in Barneys.  This might have something to do with his smart pricing with nothing bieng over $1,000.  That's pretty much a reasonable price when it comes to high-end designer dress leagues.  I'm only slightly disappointed that his breakout didn't occur in London but still, New York have welcome him with open arms and it's working for him so I can only see an onward and upward rise from here on end. 

IMG_7291

IMG_7292

IMG_7295

IMG_7296

IMG_7302

IMG_7299

IMG_7304

IMG_7312

IMG_7306

IMG_7310

…………………………………………………………………………………………..

Ostwald Helgason are new to the Milk Made schedule and made a banging start with what I think is their best presentation yet.  Their collections that are shown at the London Fashion Week exhibition have been quietly gaining momentum, picking up stockists like Opening Ceremony.  I've already logged in a huge personal order for S/S 12 just because they seem to pick up on the oddest textural detailing and motifs.  Last season it was cork and laminated dried hydrangeas.  This season, it's nautical stripes and sea monsters.  Looking at old antique maps and Nordic seafaring tales, Susanne Helgason and Invgar Ostwald honed in on the nautical stripe and spliced them into neat little shifts and flared hem skirts, adding unexpected colours that you might not associate with the oft-used nautical theme.  The sea monsters appeared as an illustration on sweatshirts and some seriously covetable knitwear bulked out this precise collection.  The waffle knits did have a Jonathan Saunders feel to them except the duo used effective colour combinations that really make them the sort of winter warmers that you'd wear over and over again. 

IMG_7237

IMG_7238

IMG_7242

IMG_7245

IMG_7249

IMG_7253

IMG_7255

IMG_7265

IMG_7277

IMG_7280

IMG_7286

IMG_7316

IMG_7287

IMG_7288

IMG_7315

Comments (36)

  1. POPTUCKSHOP says:

    Those striped trousers are a winner! Gorgeous colours and a gorgeous, sleek design.

  2. POPTUCKSHOP says:

    ALSO love the white polo-neck styling which is a little Jil Sander-esque. The other 2 designers aren’t doing much for me at all though.

  3. Serdane says:

    I love these colors, this touch of spring summer on the collection !
    http://www.younglington.wordpress.com

  4. amanda says:

    great pictures! lovely styling as well

  5. Yes! Not just another exposed zipper situation. Fringe by zipper, just sounds right.
    thesmokingnuns.com

  6. deadlyinlove says:

    Your psots are always so informative, I like it so much!

  7. Lydia says:

    The prints from the first set are amazing, but didn’t a larger fashion house just do something like this last year? I can’t place my finger on it, but they look soooo familiar.

  8. The Minx says:

    wow, the pink floor-length dress at Dean Quinn is to die for!!

  9. Lea says:

    woooooow great prints great models!!!! i love your pics ever ever ever!!
    ‘xoxo
    LeA

  10. Emily Burke says:

    Amazing photos,
    these looks are so flawlessly beautiful.
    Cant wait till LFW
    if your going -
    i’ll see you there !

  11. I loved Calla!! She looks so grunchy-chic!! Congrats for all your great job!!
    Greetings from Santiago, Chile.
    http://carethewear.wordpress.com
    @cristianpavezd on Twitter.

  12. Haidee says:

    Love the colours and use of the zips amazing :)
    http://www.haideeandco.blogspot.com

  13. Maya says:

    Out of these three collections, I’d say Calla is my favorite. I go crazy for color and digital prints combined. What works of art.

  14. vicky says:

    Nice work! I especially liked Calla’s pieces…

  15. Love love love the Ostwald Helgason presentation, those colours are exactly what I want in the fall.

  16. I love the prints for Calla, especially the 4th pic down. Looks like ballpoint ink splotches… thank you for the pictures.

  17. Emily says:

    Following tweets of those lucky enough to attend NYFW, I was wondering how the Milk Studios presentations worked. I knew they weren’t in the “tents”. Great to know for future reference! I love that you seek out the up-and-coming instead of the scene.
    My favorite of these three (if it’s possible to compare) is Calla. Creative prints with almost a Thakoon feel.

  18. Soffia says:

    I saw the Ostwald Helgason show and thought it was amazing! exclamation mark
    Soffia

  19. very cool, I really like the abstract granite prints

  20. The styles from the first set are awesome, but didn’t a bigger design home just do something like this last year? I can’t position my little kids finger on it, but they look sooo acquainted.

  21. It was very useful for me. Keep sharing such ideas in the future as well. This was actually what I was looking for, and I am glad to came here! Thanks for sharing the such information with us

  22. As usual i am searching some useful information, immediately i found this post and gain some useful information great work such a great brain to use.

  23. Love the print matching nail polish and the zip structures.
    http://matchalattewardrobe.blogspot.com/

  24. Constance says:

    I love it!! But why on earth those girls are that skinny???? It make me not appreciate the design 100% !!!

  25. They looks amazing…Nice pics my dear.
    Today i lost my keys, but i’m so happy because now is snowing:
    http://laviequo.blogspot.com/2012/02/lost-keys.html
    XOXO from Munich
    La Vie Quotidienne
    http://www.laviequo.com

  26. Suzi says:

    fabulous drool-worthy pieces and it must have been AMAZING seeing these gorgeous garments on the runway!!!!
    Suzi x
    For the Love of Audrey

  27. God! I’m absolutely in love with Calla now! Those prints are amazing, and the fabrics and the feminine cuts. The ballerina shoes really make it all perfect. Beautiful simplicity going in here!
    Xx

  28. Anniken says:

    I loved Cala’s colour pallette! So delicate and crazy at the same time!

  29. This was really very nice posting in this blog. I had really liked the stuff very much.
    The information was very cordial. Thanks!
    http://www.todaydownload.com

  30. Rachel says:

    Milk sounds amazing, the exact reason why I love going to Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows on the LFW schedule!

  31. Danielle says:

    These collections are beautiful! I especially love the pretty prints from Calla. Good for you for checking out up and coming designers. Thanks so much for sharing.

  32. Sara says:

    In shock over how amazing these collections are! Truly love the first one with the bright tights!
    http://isabellasfashion.blogspot.com

Comment below