There haven't been that many new-NEW shoe designers that have gotten super excited with the exception of Simona Vanth which has made a storming debut last season with its Plastique Primitive collection that is now currently stocked in Dover Street Market, a good benchmark of success.  

Designer Simona Citarella returns with a new A/W 12-3 collection named "Concrete Island", after the J.G. Ballard novel that once again seeks to find new surface textures, derived from isolated themes.  If ever there were a shoe label that recalls a whole host of music, architecture, art and literature references in my head then Simona Vanth would be it – 90s acid house, the Barbican building, George Orwell, the new Chromatics album and Ryan McGinley's photography are just some of the things that come to mind.  In fact it is artist Sterling Ruby's mixed media pieces that directly inspire the collection with her combination of the artificial and the natura and the graffiti and the antique, which is how we get acid hue brushed calf leather, sprayed black rubber, blue wood leather and scratchy gold mirror leather.  This collision of the old and new and the natural and the artificial underlies Simone Vanth's work, giving her shoes a feeling that they might have just been excavated from a time capsule 50 years from now without a period or region to define them.  I personally love how there's a kind sturdiness to Citarella's work, which comes from her experience as a shoe designer for the likes of bStore and Opening Ceremony.  These aren't shoes for wobbling around in.  Whilst escaping into the dreamscape of inspiration source imagery for this Simona Vanth collection, it's reassuring that the end results are pleasingly down to earth.  

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The extra edge that Simona Vanth has this season is a stellar collaboration with jewellery designer Arielle de Pinto.  De Pinto's crochet is very seamlessly worked into three of the styles from Simona Vanth's new A/W 12-3 collection and feels like they were born out of a like-minded creative relationship.   Citarella of course has a natural knack for collaboration given that she is also buyer and owner of the store Wok in Milan, giving her the opportunity to work with a plethora of designers and creatives.  Artistic partnerships will continue to underpin Simona Vanth as a shoe label that feels like an open-ended dialogue.

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I'm segueing into Arielle de Pinto's A/W 12-3 collection which was presented in New York at The Standard Hotel as part of MADE.  I sadly missed the presentation but these backstage photos by BFA and the still shots of the collection give me a good idea of what is an assertive collection of Arielle de Pinto's signature metal crochet and knitting.  Her collection now comprises of her Atelier line, her AdP line, her collection for men, her custom showpieces as well as a few collaborations up her sleeve.  It's all instantly recognisable of course as Arielle de Pinto because of that metal crochet/knit, which has been ripped off shamelessly on numerous occasions.  There's a refinement to her work now though where the crochet/knit is more contained and controlled – framed by a gold hairpin or weighted down by gold cubes in a pair of earrings – all the while, it still has that free spirited quality that has always embodied de Pinto's work.  

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In this new collection, she showed not one but two shoe collaborations with the first being her shoes designed with Simona Vanth and the second being these crocheted platforms boots, rubber lace-ups and sandals for LVMM, a continuation of their work together from S/S 12.   

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Comments (20)

  1. Elisa Eymery says:

    I love the vracelet with dark chains and gold tubes, I’m a big fan of subtle, edgy bling.
    Elisa
    Wandering Minds
    http://www.ourwanderingminds.com

  2. Coline says:

    Oh wow! These are amazing!!
    munchmecat.blogspot.com

  3. Serdane says:

    Nice collection ! the inspiration of these shoes is suitable with what she is used to do previously.
    http://www.younglington.wordpress.com

  4. I really like the green flats in the first shot.
    http://styleseer.blogspot.com

  5. Berta says:

    I love the jewellery =)

  6. maya.autumn says:

    i think it must be a ‘cool-shoe-day’ for me today…i keep finding amazing shoes! (like these)
    Oh, and i posted about how much i love chunky/platform-y shoes this morning, here’s the link if you’re interested:
    http://cottonmixblog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/obsessed-with-creepers-beetle-crushers.html

  7. fantastic, omg, all the pics are great!!!! love them!!!!

  8. Sophie says:

    I adore the shoes – another inspiring post!
    http://girlonbroughtonstreet.blogspot.co.uk/

  9. Lovely jewelry…Sometimes the shoes is a part of one painting =) great post
    La Vie Quotidienne
    XOXO from MUNICH
    http://www.laviequo.com

  10. cro says:

    love the shoes! this post is amazing, waiting for the next one!
    kisses from paris!
    http://jolicassoulet.wordpress.com/

  11. These shoes are highly fashioned and very fabulous. Their metallic color add effects to them and makes them more sophisticated.

  12. I can see why you like them! Loved some of the designs!!
    xoxo
    http://www.lolitainthemix.blogspot.com

  13. Jess says:

    honestly, some of these shoes look like shit, absolutely unbalanced and awakward…

  14. Christy says:

    Wow. I like your blog so much. I like the high heel shoes. I never see such a great design before. It would be better if the design is being Mass Production so that I can find one in the market at cheap. Thanks.
    Cheers,
    Christy
    Bikini online
    Wholesale boutique

  15. Very good! like the post!

  16. Nathan Niche says:

    oh lawd! i love me a good chunky shoe post! love the black ones with the thick heel, lovessss!!! gonna get me one of them for sureee! :) xx
    -FIND YOUR NICHE-
    http://style-niche.blogspot.com

  17. Everything but the shoes. Such a amazing color!

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