>> Stiff and rigid aren't exactly the type of clothing descriptions that welcome you with open arms.  Balenciaga and Celine in recent seasons have been great purveyors of making the stiff and the rigid covetable.  Challenging, yes but covetable nonetheless.  Berlin-based longtime established designer Kostas Murkudis doesn't necessarily adhere to the same aesthetic strands as the aforementioned labels but his latest A/W 12-3 collection does run in line with the season's preoccuption with clothing as protective shells.  These are the type of shells that take oversized clothing to new heights as garments try their very hardest to stand away from the body, aided by bonded or stiffened fabrics, foams, neoprenes and quilting and heavy boiled wools.  Masking what lies beneath with architectural clothing obscurity is the aim.  Murkudis likens his clothing to furniture, having been inspired by the work of modern movement architects and furniture designers Eileen Gray and Charlotte Perriand and his lookbook imagery and video features the Non Conformist chair by Gray, mirroring the controlled curvature of the mintgreen padded foam top in Murkudis' collection.  You can continue to draw similarities between the collection and Gray and Perriand's modernist designs that don't necessarily fit one's immediate picture of 1930s design.  When Murkudis distills his designs so that the most eye-catching features are the architectural lines, the contrast of textures and the restrained but still intimate palette, you can forget about taking anything obviously historic from this collection even though he says the colleciton is about "historical pieces, looking backwards."  Regardless of inspiration source, it's the immedate impact of the silhouettes that is seared on to your brain.  I'm quite excited by the upcoming fall winter opportunities when these cumbersome shells for the body will feel entirely fitting and appropriate.      

P.S. I'm a ball of confusion, looking at heavy boiled wool winter coats whilst staring at a hot-HOT-HAWT pool at my hotel in Mexico City.  Yes, I'm on the road again.  I'll be here until Saturday so please, any tips, do leave them dotted about.  

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Comments (16)

  1. Duck says:

    My next haircut. Right. There.

  2. Peter says:

    I love the idea of the body hidden by clothing. Especially if the garments aren’t heavy
    x Peter @ http://low–couture.blogspot.com

  3. Beautiful shapes, I love the lightly crushed paper effect.
    Penny Dreadful Vintage

  4. Tian says:

    Great post, those are some wonderfully structured pieces.
    http://aspiringforever.blogspot.com

  5. This is so mod and gorgeous. I love the rigidity.
    howtowindowshop.blogspot.com

  6. I love winter fashion too, these are amazing shots. Yes, it looks like an amazing amount of vilene and bonded fabrics must have been needed!
    http://www.fashionablepeople.co.uk

  7. Anna says:

    awesome heels!!!!!!wow

  8. I loved it!! So geometric! Very inspiring.
    Greetings from Santiago, Chile.
    http://carethewear.wordpress.com
    Twitter: @cristianpavezd
    Facebook: http://on.fb.me/uywe6X

  9. biz-fashion says:

    I love the feel of these photos – and her hair and outfit is really lovely

  10. maruschka says:

    love the pictures. great hair

  11. Amanda says:

    I love the shoes!

  12. These photos are amazing. Admiring the structure and blend of clean colors and shapes.
    http://www.littleredbook-thatshaute.blogspot.com

  13. In love with all the shoes. You can always be relied upon to share something new and fantastic!

  14. this is my favourite of all your posts, the photos are stunning and beautiful!Perfection!

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