• Sasquatchfabrix S4 pyjama look
  • Pleats Please roses
  • Karaoke dunce cc @tommyton @Steve_Salter @junsukeyamasaki @mrstreetpeeper @rila_fukushima
  • Karaoke Queens @mrstreetpeeper @rila_fukushima !!!
  • Hiding in plain sight @craigandkarl X @lespecs_eyewear #sakura

I find it a little funny that my most vivid (not to be confused with earliest) memories of fashion from my childhood and teen years revolved around the logo.  Did you have a Sweater Shop or a United Colours of Benetton sweatshirt on at primary school?  If you did, you were automatically in a gang of sorts.  Worn with a colourful poloneck underneath and a flippy little skirt and you're ready to dance your way round the school disco to Whigfield.  Did you carry a French Connection or Miss Selfridge drawstring flimsy rucksack to school?  If you did, even though they were wholly unpractical and totally naff, they scored you cool points at school.  Kangol and Dr Martens emblazoned record bags also had their moment too until we realised that carrying ten textbooks on one shoulder would wreck our posture for life.  

It was these memories that came flooding back when I paid for these Chanel denim shorts at Liberty's designer vintage department, a place that for some reason I've overlooked over the years.  I'm at two minds whether I should be apologetic about them.  On paper, they are horrendously naff – big ol' Chanel logo embroidered at the front, a larger-than-necessary black logo-ed tab at the side, not one but five Chanel gold buttons on the fly and brown stitching on the back pockets mimicking the famous Chanel quilting.  Can you tell they're shorts made by Chanel?  I chuckled and related to this blog post on Noisy Shoes, where she defends her decision to don a pink J'Adore Dior t-shirt.  "I know it‚Äôs not very now, but I just like it, ok" she says, citing its "tongue-in-cheek-ness" as a reason to love it.  Logomania has come full circle to the point where we can laugh, wear and not feel ashamed about it, and even on some level, take pride in emblazoning your chest (or in my case, kneecaps) with a very knowing and wink-wink-nudge-nudge logo. 

IMG_7776

IMG_7771

IMG_7774

IMG_7785

IMG_7783
(Worn with ASOS top, American Apparel vest and Christopher Kane sandals)

Logomania didn't begin with "chavs" but certainly memories of seeing labels like Umbro, McKenzie and Ellesse so prominently and proudly on show, is ingrained in a lot of British people's minds.  They were and still are targets of derision but even now, their Nikes, their slouchy silhouettes and their logo-ed sweatshirts have come back in strands of fashion in editorials, in the upsurge of trainer-wearing within a style context and in young London designers who reference this sub-culture.  

Chavs1

Maxck
032c issue 18. Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, Styled by Max Pearmain

Chavs2
Photograph by Barry Delaney

Then we had the late 90s and early 00's rampage where we were besieged with images of labels like Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Gucci worn and carried in abundance.  It was as flashy as you can get.  Incidentally, it was this specific epoch of fashion that made me hate the logo.  This was my Kevin the grumpy Teenager phase.  To me this type of excess represented judgemental peers in Hong Kong who would look down on you if you weren't carrying a designer bag and so the logo as a status symbol became apparent and in a way, synonymous with high fashion.   

Logomania

YSL's S/S 08 collection was memorable on the whole, one of Stefano Pilati's best in my opinion and his decision to place the YSL logo on a simple grey sweatshirt was bold and wholly effective at the time.  Nobody would really accuse this sweatshirt of falling victim to logomania.  Rather it felt appropriate to pay homage to this bit of typography genius designed by Adolph Mouron Cassandre.  

Yslsweat

The hunt for vintage logo tees therefore began and to the present day, you can see them popping up on style blogs, worn in a way that acknowledges the importance of the logo.  The question you ask therefore is whether this is a more subtle version of using the logo as a status symbol?

Yslvint
Vintage YSL tee from Joellen Love Flickr

Ysllogo
YSL logo by Adolphe Mouron Cassandre, photographed by Hedi Slimane for 10 magazine, Brian Lichtenberg RIP YSL tee

The resurgence for vintage logo tees went hand in hand with the popularity of designer vintage in general, which to this day is a stable industry.  Vintage Chanel bags and Chanel jewellery feel like eternally popular items that will never be short of buyers, and in particular the more prominent, the double C's, the better.  

Chaneljewel
Vintage Chanel jewellery from Claire Inc

Claire Inc, one of my favourite sites for browsing this ilk of logo-prominent vintage is one of the many sellers responsible for creating trends such as the hunt for Moschino Belt with the gold letters spelling out the brand name, fully on show.  Owner Belinda Humphris cites a few reasons for this collective penchant for items like the Moschino belt and designer vintage in general.  "I think vintage provides a more accessible avenue for many to designer wares which directly impacts popularity. Pieces like Moschino belts are very affordable in the scheme of things (in comparison to say a classic Chanel bag). Moschino belts provide a huge brand statement and authentic versions can be picked up from $50-$300 (depending how lucky you are).  Wearing vintage branding in many cases also shows credibility – a nod to fashion history. By sourcing and subsequently wearing it they are showing a knowledge (or even just an interest) the brand's past."

The last point is one that I think is often overlooked – that buying a vintage piece is a self-aware nod to fashion history, one that feels more intelligent than simply walking into a designer label store and buying a logo belt straight off the rack, brand new.  

Moschinobelt
Vintage Moschino belts from Claire Inc. Images from Lookbook.nu

Humphris is also on the money when accounting for the revived interest in vintage Versace and its associations with a style period that continues to be a reference today.  "Fashion icons such as MIA sporting layers of vintage Versace HUGELY increase demand for emblazoned, iconic brand imagery. Wearing a medusa head tshirt is synonymous with Versace and is a direct throwback to the blatant logo loving of the 90s (the era of the supermodel, grunge and extreme logomania).  Wearing an emblazoned (or even customized) garment directly references the vintage era whilst being worn in a tongue in cheek, modern context.  Obviously the resurgence in 90s trends supports the interest in iconic, authentic 90s pieces too."

In London in particular, you'll encounter vintage Versace tees worn in a context that definitely references the nineties, a style period that just keeps on giving and giving when it comes to London's irony-obsessed stylesetters.  Oh irony!  There's no getting away from it when discussing the resurgence of logos.  There is definitely a conscious decision to express a slightly smug and self-congratulating image when opting for a vintage logo-ed tee.  It says "Isn't it like, so funny that I'm wearing this really cheesy t-shirt?  Except on me it isn't cheesy at all…"  

Vintversace1

Vintversace2
Images from Lookbook.nu

The revival of Versace prints courtesy of their collaboration with H&M, reissued classics and Lady Gaga's seal of Versace approval is pretty much the equivalent of having a logo on show.  The prints are so distinctly Versace that any imitations that come ridden with baroque swirls, gold chains and bright colours would immediately be recognised as Versace.  Zone 7 Style in Shoreditch has an amazing collection of vintage Versace by the way if you're in the market for head-to-toe print bling.    

Versaceprint

Then there's the proliferation of the DIY logo with this almost-iconic image by Jak and Jil sealing the fate of the soon to be ubiquitous Sharpied double C's.  

Chaneljakandjil

Countless DIY tees featuring the double C's or the YSL logo have popped up all over the place and it need not matter if the logo looks evidently DIY-ed.  The point isn't to come up with a realistic looking and authentic looking logo but it seems the more prominent the feathered strokes of a felt tip pen or fabric paint, the better.  

Diychanel1 Diychanel2
Chanel DIY Tee by Style Today

Diyysl
YSL DIY Tee by Helen Glory

The latest logo-ed tee that has already got people panting comes from Celine.  Phoebe Philo is of course no stranger to instantly-recongisable instantly-covetable merchandise, having been responsible for the flood of Chloe Paddington bags with their heavy padlocks that are equivalent to a logo.  

Celine
Celestine Cooney for Elleuk.com

We meet our friend irony again when discussing the various warped versions of logos and in particular Chanel's double C's have bore the brunt of defilement.  Paint drips, wordplay and context shake-up – the double C's have seen em' all.  Along with the Louis Vuitton monogram and the Gucci G's, they've been placed in contexts that go far and beyond fashion because of their instantly recognisable image. 

Chaneldrip

Chanelfake
From L-R T-B: Surlaliste, Parsnips UK, Tumblr, Sexy-Sweaters

Present day attempts to instill appreciation for new logos are well on their way to succeeding.  LVMH has just relaunched Moynat as a luxury luggage heritage-laden brand that attempts to garner some of the success that say Goyard has had.  Somehow brands like Goyard and Hermes have escaped any image of looking naff or tacky by maintaining a carefully manicured and protected image.  Moynat probably hopes to do the same.    

Moynatbike

Another example are the MCM backpacks, which have been incredibly popular in Asia and are now making their way over to the UK with a MCM logo covered routemaster running around town at the moment. 

Mcmlondon

Turning to the young generation of London-based designers, who carry a collective overview memory of chav culture, 90s logomania and ironic-logo revival, they're able to turn the logo on its head, nod to the past and make it their own.  Christopher Shannon has come up with many variations of his name as a logo in his collections over the past few years.  He knowingly references chav culture and understands the power of placing his name visibly on his clothing.  He does this bravely and people who buy into Shannon's clothing also carry all those aforementioned references and knows that wearing his name isn't necessarily an act of slavish brand loyalty.  

Christopher-shannon

Likewise, J.W. Anderson has boldly put his logo on his S/S 12 striped pyjamas, something that he wants to establish as a recognisable brand item.  Jonathan Anderson is keen on establishing a brand and with items like the logo-ed pyjama or the kilt skirt, he's on his way to developing a house code that he can call his own.  

Jwanderson

Maarten van der Horst is only three seasons in with his label and has already developed a memorable logo for himself that is a humorous reference of heavy metal bands like Metallica.  It's not necessarily a world that is intrinsically linked with van der Horst's design aesthetic but the fact that it's so out-of-place seems appropriate for a designer like van der Horst, who twists and turns imagery and design on its head.  "Designing an M that's inspired by Metallica, but when put in a different context is all of a sudden just a really strange, but very strong shape. We twist and play with the concept of ownership and by doing that try to slowly, but surely, define what it is my studio and our designs stand for," explains van der Horst in an interview with Dazed Digital.

Mvh1 Mvh2

It's only when I review everything that has gone by in fashion's relationship with the logo that buying the Chanel shorts, which five years ago I wouldn't touch with a bargepole, makes sense now.  You can put it down to that self-knowing irony of wearing a pair of shorts as overtly branded as they are or 90s retrogazing.  Whatever it is, this dulled and more sidelined version of logomania is definitely not going anywhere by my reckoning.  We're willingly branding ourselves with whatever popular motif that rears its head in fashion be it Givenchy panthers, Stella McCartney botanical florals or Mary Katrantzou typewriters so the logo along with hyper-visual prints is certainly part of our culture to set ourselves apart or in with the crowd, depending on your perspective.    

Comments (27)

  1. Sam B says:

    Great post! Really interesting read. It may have inspired me to go home and do a DIY Chanel t-shirt haha. xx

  2. Serdane says:

    I can say that it’s a little bit ” fashion less ” to have a lot of logo on your clothes but with the time we’re used to this. Many people from the suburbs wear them so I think it’s maybe a complex with the fact that they do not have enough money to buy outfits from brands so they wear fake one and they claim it.
    http://www.younglington.wordpress.com

  3. Zofia says:

    Really interesting post! Susie, quick question- how do you manage to come up and link all of these different sources, people and styles? I know all of them and I must say, these are scattered all over the place… It is simply amazing that you can bring them together in a (long!) coherent post. If I may say so, I salute you :)

  4. thechicmode says:

    ciao pretty, yes logomania is coming , so cool!
    im following you
    follow eath other?
    kisses
    thechicmode.blogspot.com

  5. Amanda says:

    Great post! You’re fantastic, Susie.

  6. Interesting post! Maybe the logos are making comeback
    http://www.thegaragestarlets.com/

  7. Elisa Eymery says:

    Nice post, but nooooo I just cannot look at logos on clothes, it makes me puke a little every time I do (sorry!), even very recognizable prints irk me a little bit, which is why missoni has unfortunately has lost a bit of its charm for me… The only logo/print i can bear is the Louis Vuitton checked one on their classic handbag, perhaps because it’s after all just ‘checks’ and no-one owns checks…
    Elisa
    Wandering Minds fashion
    http://www.ourwanderingminds.com

  8. ttea says:

    Logomania was at its height in London. No where else on the planet cared as much about logo’s as the young people of England. My dad told me stories about working class teenagers going into stores and cutting out the labels to put on their own clothes.
    I think like most things, the rule, everything in moderation, holds true. Although it is necessary to brand yourself as a designer and have iconic images that make your brand, when it comes to people wearing them, it just looks like a try hard.
    I like your top by the way.
    http://fashionananthropologicalpointofview.blogspot.ca/

  9. Amy says:

    Logos will always be important to 13-year-old girls. You should see my school’s non-uniform days! Hollister and Jack Wills all over the place. Some of the clothes are nice but it’s the styling that makes the look successful, not the logo.
    Loving the Chanel fast food though!

  10. Such an amazing and though-provoking article. Thankyou so much for taking the time to write and share with us!

  11. MKP says:

    Interesting, informative and inspiring, as per
    marykathleen.blogspot.co.uk

  12. Nini Nguyen says:

    This is such a great post. You’re so creative.
    xo
    Nini

  13. Nathan Niche says:

    U DID IT!!
    u finallly did a post on the issues of LOGOMANIA! it’s been so done and so cringe that it actually his ok now to wear it, like we’re finally able to make fun of the ‘in your face ness’ of the logo (but mind u, u do know that we can’t do this in HK, it’s still very… well u know… about brands…)
    next stop, celine logo tee tucked into some nice black textured shorts!
    xx nathan.niche
    check out my FULL GIVENCHY look from AW12-3 and a SS12 KILT! all ready to wear! please comment and show support, it’s quite a fave outfit of mine really-
    http://style-niche.blogspot.hk/2012/07/kilts-on-stilts.html

  14. Jeane M. says:

    I love that cute logo in the pants. Love this style inspiration on your post.

  15. Andreas says:

    Super post! the first baggy pants/shorts are cool :) and the street style shots are awesome.
    Andi Smith

  16. Sarah says:

    Awesome post! thanks for this. I was wondering what was happening to the whole logo thing, glad its just not a “my generation” thing :)
    Sarah.x

  17. dreamy says:

    I feel so stupid for not noticing the connection between Chavs and current trends! I’ve happily sported a baseball cap, trainers and logo-baring clothes recently; referencing the nineties (since these were childhood trends) and err, “sports chic”? in my head. But never Chavs. Maybe Chavs are in perennial 90s mode?!

  18. Mitha Komala says:

    i love your shorts and top! i can never forget that Moschino belt, it was a huge blast =) xx
    Letters To Juliet

  19. Anneka says:

    Your mention of The Sweater Shop has taken me back to my 11-year-old self, and the memory of a particularly horrendous/beloved red, black and orange number that I wore for about 6 months straight…!
    aminorobsession.blogspot.com

  20. Iseabal says:

    Fantastic post – a pleasure to read. You’ve put down an entire generation ‘feeling’ on paper perfectly – and those shorts sum it up, looking fantastic. Thanks again Susie…
    Iseabal

  21. Fumi says:

    I had a falling out with the logo back in the 90s. I couldn’t stand the pompous self-promotion (marketing, which is what it is) to have a logo that large on a tee or a piece of luggage.
    I am now in favor of the discreet logo, integrated into the design of the piece or the appearance of a very tiny logo.
    I don’t need to know where you shop, unless I want it.

  22. Really love the blog. It’s adorable!

  23. Teresa says:

    It’s sad to see people my age (teens in Hong Kong) getting increasingly obsessed with the brands Hollister and A&F these days, especially since both of them have opened stores here lately. I always try not to be judgmental, yet paying THAT much for a logo-ed t-shirt or any of their products never does make sense to me. But then again, I guess this sort of brand-worshiping happens in every era. And you’re right about how it sets ourselves in with/ apart from the norm. I love this piece, Susie!

  24. Barbour says:

    Versace prints are colourfull and lovely to wear. The striped pyjamas are gloomy!!!!!

  25. Aksel says:

    Oh yea, I have wondered about this logo comeback for a while… yes everybody has been puking at logos since the 90s because they used to be signs of belonging, but now it seems they are much more consciously harnessed. Kind of looking forward to this liberated logo-game, so much more fun if the brands are not so precious anymore.
    And meanwhile there is this hunk passing my window with a huuge Armani logo on. Really depends on the wearer, right?
    http://www.aksel-mag.com/2013/06/emancipation-of-the-logo/

Comment below