Dion Lee was a sorely missed name from Sydney's Mercedes Benz Australian Fashion Week.  It was an absence felt by many show goers but of course I had the fortunate position of having seen his London Fashion Week debut back in February as well as going over to Australia to see his showroom.  Lee has all the intentions of making his presence known in London and somehow his most recent resort 2013 collection, which I saw purely in the showroom, made that point far more emphatically than his main A/W 12-3 show.  For whatever reason, Lee has carved out a vastly diverse resort collection that pushes his fascination with novel fabrication techniques to a new level.  With about four or five ideas in one pot, they could have come off looking like hastilyhashed experiments but actually the results are fine-tuned and more precise and focuse than ever.

There's no precedent for it but it's funny that in this instance, how a resort collections has suddenly become the better forum for Lee to eke out and develop his ideas from the previous mainline.  The collection centres around the forces and phenomenon of nature.  We have neoprene woven to mimic the gills of the sleekest fish one can think of.  The incisions into the neoprene are sharp and exacting.  We have the lines of topography maps of the Earth distorted and simplified, looking like sound waves or water ripples in different instances.  I like it best when the lines are spare with less Photoshop-esque effects applied and especially effective when used with light reflective or rainbow iridescent print techniques.  Or when the lines are echoed in panelled dresses which are held together with the thinnest of netting, a technique that was used in his last A/W 12-3 collection but is better seen here in bright white and vivid aqua.  

Another idea that has got more welly now is the light reflective surfaces.  From the last collection's eveningwear, it's now used in day-appropriate knits, which for some reason goes mental when photographed with an iPhone or even my hulking Samsung Galaxy Note (I love how people still give my phone the death stare because of its size).  The light reflective yarns' dulled grey colour is mixed in with subtle shades of peach, lilac and green so that even if there isn't a flash environment, the knitwear is still interesting in its own right.  

By bonding the thinnest of neoprenes to sheer fabrics, Lee presents us with a very enticing and easy method of wearing what can be an uncomfortable, if aesthetically pleasing material.  It's all very well going scuba if neoprene makes you sweat and not bend your limbs properly.  On the other end of the scale though, Lee has created some pretty magnificent neoprene knits, shredding up the material into strands and hand knitting them into a jumper and a sleeveless dress.    

Maybe it was the moon.  Maybe it was timing.  Lee definitely raised the bar on a collection that may not be the most visible but I guess it's the time they spend hanging on the rails that will ultimately make the impact on unknowing, soon-to-be-converted Dion Lee fans.

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Comments (26)

  1. My brain has been blown! These pieces are absolutely amazing.

  2. Amanda says:

    Amazing effect, love the three dimensional feel
    http://mrsadvocat.blogspot.se/

  3. Tian says:

    These pieces are stunning! The details are absolutely amazing.
    http://aspiringforever.blogspot.com

  4. Joanna says:

    That was truely mind blowing so amazing!!!!

  5. The detailing on that blue spined blazer in the first pictures is so sick and sci-fi.

  6. Sóley says:

    This is amazing. I especially adore the shimmering knits (the long sleeves make them extra luscious I think) and also the futuristic cut out pale blue dress. The fragile looking net instead of just a sheer fabric is brilliant.
    http://wearepurple.blogspot.com

  7. ttea says:

    Talk about a futuristic collection. It’s not really my taste, but it’s amazing none the less.
    http://fashionananthropologicalpointofview.blogspot.ca/

  8. walda.m says:

    love the prints and textures of the cloths!
    Check out my blog:http://be-you-do-fashion.blogspot.co.uk/
    xoxo

  9. Love these fabrication techniques and the mix of colors is amazing!!
    xxx
    Nina
    http://trendsurvivor.com/

  10. Iszy says:

    These creations are crazy good!
    Iszy x
    Is-zee.blogspot.co.uk

  11. Randa says:

    The detail is amazing!
    I love it!

  12. Dan G says:

    The prints were done in collaboration with artist Kate Banazi – http://www.katebanazi.com/ongoing/dion-lee/
    Such a great pairing!

  13. abby says:

    she looks like she was cold, probably shivering. eek. but I gotta admit, I am like some of those cut-outs and weaving
    vomitcats.com

  14. Fumi says:

    Two comments:
    1. The neoprene looks to be about 1mm, which means that it won’t maintain as much heat as say a triathlon suit or a dry suit but it will mean that if it is a Caribbean vacation, it’s best to leave the outfit at home. Sweaty neoprene is God-awful and humidity on neoprene is evil.
    2. I love the fact that you have a Note. I’ve been in the market of getting one but hadn’t found the right cover. I mean, you have to dress your cell like you dress your blog like you dress yourself.

  15. Serdane says:

    Love the collection. I like the print and the modernity about the dress cut !
    http://www.younglington.wordpress.com

  16. susana says:

    Really AMAZING!!!! It`s incredible the fabrics, the tailored…everything!!!
    Net a Porter…….. I want it!!!!!

  17. maria says:

    reminds me of the 90s futuristic fabrics^^

  18. louise says:

    Love the colours and the textures! Perfect!

  19. Sydney says:

    love love love your blog! so outgoing and awesome!
    xxooSydney
    http://satisfashionsydney.blogspot.com/

  20. The colors are stunning, and the 3D feel of the clothes is just- wow. I love these pieces.

  21. Kate says:

    Dion Lee is my favourite Australian designer, he does our country proud and is placing us on the map! This collection is further proof of that.
    Thank you for the detailed photographs it’s always great to see the garments in a different light/environment.
    The weaved neoprene from the first image (purple) also reminds me of Balenciaga’s resort shoes come to think of it!
    Great post, thank you for this!
    -Kate

  22. Emily says:

    Holy crap. I’m in absolute awe. The things he does with fabric is insane. I love the way it’s cut to make those crazy curved lines all over the place. Such a cool futuristic vibe in this collection!
    May the force be with you.
    Emily

  23. Deadly Bite says:

    Those glowing sweaters are incredible!!
    Awesome futuristic shapes :D

  24. jean says:

    Dion Lee’s designs are futuristic and textures are amazing. Cool and cute sweaters!!!!

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