The stark contrast between Karlie Kloss opening Anthony Vaccarello's A/W 12-3 show in oodles of navy satin, a buttoned up shirt and trousers that mean business with metal fastenings glinting at you in the chiarascuro-creating lighting and Kloss closing his S/S 12 show in a gaping dress that exposed every inch of her pretty-much-perfect thigh cannot be over emphasised.  That dress made an indelible impact, on the world, on a ton of editorials including an equally brazen Gwyneth Paltrow on the March 2012 issue of Harper's Bazaar US and on Kloss herself.  Backstage after the A/W 12-3 show, she exclaimed "I want to be buried in that dress!"  These are the sort of proud motherhen moments that make me blub because as some of you might know, I've been friends with Vaccarello for a good number of years now, since his debut at Hy√®res festival way back when, and along the way, tracking the ups and ups of his career since he launched his label.  

Vaccarello probably wanted to wipe the slate clean after such a poker hot image left in the wake of his S/S 12 collection and so for A/W 12-3, the girl covers up.  Or at least she does for a while before realising the party's going on again and then strips down to reveal the cut-away dresses that are controlled with Vaccarello's invisible puppet strings of laborious internal construction.  Shifting from black to navy in Vaccarello's world is radical.  Deploying the richest of navy satins in his vaguely military (but only just – no dodgy Sgt Pepper conotations here) tailoring, felt like Vaccarello was taking his own version of a risk.  Concealed flesh.  Zippered.  Buttoned.  Strapped in.  When a shoulder is revealed in a demi jacket construction that cleverly nods to the way girls drape a boyfriend jacket over one shoulder, it's as precise as ever.  These are the sort of illusions which makes his crafty game of conceal-and-revealing the body such a fun pursuit to play with, even for covered-up addicts such as myself.  

Once the hem lines start going up on skirts and mini dresses, it's the exterior detailing we're drawn into, as Vaccarello was inspired by vintage lingerie – garter belts, fanlacers, corsetry – all contributing to rubber-coated accent lines, lace-up detailing and metal toggles and buckles.  Every fastening is as integral to each ensemble as the construction itself and it's only upon closer inspection that the lingerie-derived details really spring into action.  It's also here that Vaccarello falls back to his signature trait of magically making one solid colour appear as though it was composed of a variety of shades, using different textures, fabrications and depths.  One note sexy dresses are in fact complex symphonies made up of components so complex in their construction that whenever I visit Vaccarello's studio, his patterns and on-dummy toiling looks like the most challenging of geometry lessons.  

Vaccarello's isn't slavish to his precision though as the appearance of disco-friendly lame in gold and Little Mermaid-esque iridescent electric green jolts through the final passage of the collection.  Call it whimsy.  A flight of fancy even.  Still, it's never going to stray too far from the core message of what Vaccarello has to offer.  Notice how this post is devoid of all "I'm biased because we're friends" sentiment.  He's now been elevated to a level that I would not have comprehended three years ago and I'm just happy to be that cheerleader waving on from the back of a very long and illustrious queue.  

IMG_3842

IMG_3843

IMG_3844

IMG_3716

IMG_5067

IMG_3849

IMG_3718

IMG_3721

IMG_5051

IMG_3723

IMG_5091

IMG_3725

IMG_3736

IMG_3739

IMG_5083

IMG_3742

IMG_5064

IMG_3746

IMG_3750

IMG_5102

IMG_3852

IMG_3757

IMG_3761

IMG_5061

IMG_3777

IMG_3783

IMG_3786

IMG_5080

IMG_3791

IMG_3810

IMG_5053

IMG_3818

IMG_5074

IMG_3823

IMG_5052

IMG_3826

IMG_3838

IMG_3877

IMG_3701

Comments (25)

  1. Lilith says:

    wonderful pictures !

  2. Tara says:

    This collection is rather impressive. I love how it exudes simplicity and an electric sense of intensity, all at the same time.
    Best Wishes,
    Tara
    http://dandelionden.blogspot.co.uk/

  3. Janice says:

    That electric green is electrifyingly gorgeous!

  4. Charlie says:

    Wow this is so beautiful! Love all the navy satin pieces, and the detailing!!

  5. Elisa says:

    The colours and textures are mesmerising.
    Elisa
    Wandering Minds fashion
    http://www.ourwanderingminds.com

  6. Serdane says:

    I’m impressed by the work done for each collections done with the time. He’ll be very famous.
    http://www.younglington.wordpress.com

  7. Andreina says:

    Love this collection. The construction of each garment is so well done.. Love it

  8. niche says:

    “Vaccarello probably wanted to wipe the slate clean after such an poker hot image left in the wake of his S/S 12 collection and so for A/W 12-3, the girl covers up.” Or he realized it’s winter and it’s cold for more than half the people in the world who buy clothes. Sorry, I started laughing when I read that. Sometimes I buy into fashion writing and other times, it’s stretched a little too thin. However, this collection is fantastic. The green metallic dress is stunning and the navy pieces are great, especially the great coats.

  9. ttea says:

    It’s not personally my style, but what this shows is the extremely high level of craftsmanship involved in each garment. With more elaborate pieces you’re left wondering at the outer workings, and the aesthetics of the garment, but this allows you to appreciate the work put into it stitch by stitch.
    P.S. I published a post called ’5 Problems with Fashion Magazines’ that I think you would be interested in. I know that I would be interested in your input.
    http://fashionananthropologicalpointofview.blogspot.ca/

  10. lish says:

    I want one of those jackets! :)

  11. Dark, but beautiful!
    Shop Dresses Online at CopperEtiquette

  12. susie_bubble says:

    In hindsight, I should have added that that sentence doesn’t sound so ridiculous when you consider the context of Vaccarello’s collections. His past AW collections are pretty flesh-centric (in the best of ways) and seasons havent’t figured into his work so much as he establishes his design signature. This covered up approach feels radical in the context of HIS design trajectory which I suppose is weird for most onlookers. Sorry for the blinkered/airhead writing. I will edit just to make that point clearer.

  13. Cleo says:

    i love the sexuality that is used in this collection but it is not over done it is both dark, mysterious and tough and don’t forget elegant with a large dab of sexy. great collection.

  14. This is very sexy. I really like the cut and structuring around the bust – very naughty and decadent. Through the garments have somewhat of a strict feel (hey – one false move and here comes a good old Janet Jackson moment) I have to admit that I would definitely fancy owning a piece from this collection.
    As soon as I saw the images with splashes of green, I fell in love. What can I say, a girl will always be left in awe with smart splashes of colour in otherwise black/dark collections. Works for all mainstream designers all the time – Gucci, YSL, D&G etc…
    Edita
    pret-a-reporter.co.uk

  15. Madison says:

    I admire the thoughtfulness taken with the trimming details and fabric choice. It’s a really well executed collection.

  16. Eli says:

    It’s like military X outer space, it’s polished and so good!

  17. Olive says:

    all of those pieces are a dream! love the shiny fabric and and cutting. Brilliant!

  18. amazing detailing! love it! :D
    http://www.fazanemalik.co.uk limited edition womenswear with a twist

  19. niche says:

    Thanks for your explanation. In the context you explained, your writing makes more sense to me. I just want to add that 99% of what you write is great and sometimes I’m just a little to cynical and business oriented to appreciate a more philosophical approach.

  20. D says:

    Hi to all, how is the whole thing, I think every one is getting more from this web page.
    Friend link: http://www.chooseyoursneakers.com

  21. Hillary says:

    Lovely collection. I really love the precision of the cut in all these garments, but it’s the details like the buckles and laced up bits that pull everything together.

  22. Adil says:

    No words to praise this collection. The black colour is always great for women. But this shinning cloth & dress design have made this a superb collection. The Golden Neck length dress is amazing.

  23. mar says:

    wait. what´s the dress you ´re talking about?
    I was so looking forward to seeing that dress on Karlie Kloss!

Comment below