>> After a mini spree at Opening Ceremony in Soho today, having bought two pieces from two Korean labels that have just come in as part of their "OC goes to Korea" trip, I walked around Soho on a gloriously sunny day on a "I want to move to NYC" high.  It's partly the feel-good glows of disgustingly indulgent shopping (having not shopped in a while) and partly to do with the yumminess of Vanessa's Dumplings in my tum.  Then I mentally chided myself for my memory lapse.  Opening Ceremony HAS of course landed in London and with their permanent store opening up in October, the Korean labels that I had just bought from will indeed be heading their way across the Atlantic.  They've chosen well and have already got a few pieces from Low Classic, which I wrote about as well as the established Steve J and Yoni P.  

Two labels that I've yet to write about and are worth peeking at when they do finally make it to London or onto the online store definitely show an edgier side to Korean fashion that doesn't purely play the referential game, which my initial impression of Seoul Fashion Week seems to suggest.  

Kaal E. Suktae is the brand of Lee Suk Tae and has actually been in operation since 1997, as established as people such as Lie Sang Bong except he's been hidden far far away in Seoul Fashion Week and as much as it seems that way, I don't actually meticulously go through EVERY collection in the world.  The A/W 12-3 collection gets something spot on though in a way that previous Kaal E. Suktae collections don't.  His focus on geometric-led strict tailoring and structural analysis has softened and relaxed with the injection of slouchy jackets and tops that are contrasted with sleek trousers and coats.   The collection is centred around convey speed and light though colour blocking, prints and holographic textures.  The tie dye light print on a loose turtle-necked sweater with PVC panelling reminds me of lurid goalie jerseys from the 1980s or for a more recent sporting reference, cycling jerseys from the Tour de France.  Actually that sportswear vibe is the positive permutation in this collection that appropriately refreshes what Suk Tae has always done well, which is directional tailoring.  Primary colours are also given an update in the hands of Suk Tae as he turns red to maroon, blue to a shade of royal or teal and green to emerald and with used with black, white and grey, it's a moodier take on the core trio of colours.  I oohed and aahed over every piece in Opening Ceremony as they had conveniently picked out the best pieces.  The aforementioned printed sweater was what got me but it'll be even more dangerous if the collection crosses the ocean.   

Kaal

pushButton is a brand that I knew from Pixie Market who was one of their first known international stockist but it was great to see practically a whole rail of pieces from what is another decidedly offbeat collection where candy pink, teddy bear faux fur in camo formation, digital prints of cityscapes and cone-bra motifs come together and make sense.  The designer behind pushButton Seunggun Park broke the mould of Korean fashion back in 2003 by seeking art-fashion collaborations and creating showpieces that are quirky without sacrificing wearability.  At Opening Ceremony, pushButton pieces sat alongside Jeremy Scott and that's a good way of summing up the sort of aesthetic niche that pushButton occupies.  For A/W 12-3 Park sings the tune of Forever Young as he tries to bottle up youth in a clothing bottle.  That apparently means plenty of pink, faux fur, tube tops in rubber, vinyl and PVC so I'm thinking Park's vision of youth revolves around watching old Deee Lite and Shampoo (the band) videos.  That's a good thing when the clothes also happen to be contemporary-level priced.  I'll be wondering whether I have the gall to pull off the Baby-Spice-gone-weird-n-slutty cone-bra baby pink PVC crop top and matching skirt with boob cut-outs.  That's the outfit on the left right at the bottom, if you want to add your two cents/pennies.  

Pushbutton1

Comments (20)

  1. alicia says:

    Yesssss – Korean labels are finally getting some recognition. They’ve become so refined in recent years, and I’m so glad they’re finally leaving the continent and getting some worldwide love.
    You should check out Fleamadonna – the head designer studied in London, and her aesthetic would appeal to you.

  2. D says:

    Yup, signed up. Beautiful world…I’ll keep you posted if I come up with anything.
    Friend link: http://www.cheapshoe-shop.com

  3. Japanese brands are lastly getting some identification. They’ve become so enhanced nowadays, and I’m so glad they’re lastly leaving there are and getting some globally love.

  4. Noé says:

    Such great discoveries ! Both of these brands are very interesting and inspiring. There is this “new” and “never-seen-before” touch that I really admire.
    Noé,
    on Couleur Spleen.

  5. Tara says:

    I really do love how Suk Tae’s collection is intrinsically modern, yet not at all “try-hard”. That allows the simpler elements – like the high waisted, mandarin trousers and tailored coats – to really shine through.
    Best Wishes,
    Tara
    http://dandelionden.blogspot.co.uk/

  6. fazane says:

    love the grey and black jacket
    http://www.fazanemalik.co.uk limited edition womenswear with a twist

  7. Eeeeeee! Love it when you feature korean labels!

  8. Katy says:

    Is this a coincidence? I also posted a blogpost about Korean designers at my blog. Our minds connected! haha
    mintcolored.blogspot.com

  9. ttea says:

    I’m not entirely sure about this collection, it’s not quite my thing. What I do like though are the coats and jackets, the craftsmanship looks incredible on them. I love well contracted jackets, it’s like architecture for the body. I also like some of the pink pieces, because pink is just an amazing colour.
    http://fashionananthropologicalpointofview.blogspot.ca/

  10. fantastic post and great to be reminded that asian designers are showing their talent more and more. now the question is… which pieces did you buy? ;)
    http://theconfashionary.wordpress.com

  11. Love your title!
    The black & white print from pushButton is amazing. And I love the way they make it into those oversized outfits too. Hope I can see these beautiful pieces in real life one day. Maybe they might stock it here in Sydney one day.
    Just write up this review of some beautiful prints from Down Under from my little artistic point of view as a complete fashion outsider I would call myself. You might have already seen them all (surely for Emma Mulholland) but still would be awesome if you can give it a read! http://www.theflyingroom.com/blogs/news/6433502-trendspotting-ss12-13-prints-down-under
    xx
    Danling @The Flying Room
    http://www.theflyingroom.com/blogs/news

  12. Olive says:

    lovely pattern and the pink collection is dream!

  13. WhiteCloset says:

    colors and patterns are marvelous
    WhiteCloset Fashion Blog
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  14. If these fashion items can actually be found online, I’m sure the online store will get a lot of customers and followers. I can tell those are from Tokyo fashion.. I like ‘em all! Thanks for the share… I’m definitely getting ideas now!

  15. Emily says:

    Love love love the show!!!Awesome!What a wonderful inspiration!
    All the items are fantastic!

  16. DressSwiller says:

    Love those pink pants ! Oh gosh it was sold out in hk !

  17. DressSwiller says:

    But I love PushButton !

  18. I love all outfits, i would like to say all outfits collection is really awesome. I am very impressed with you.. Keep up !!

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