• It was announced a while ago but wanted to say how happy I am to have been asked to select Dress of the Year 2013 at Fashion Museum in Bath. My choice was this @christopherkanestudio SS13 beauty.
  • Love this concertina beach scene print on @marios_official tote available at @therefineryhk now! #PMQIS
  • Congrats to my cousin @elizabethlauldn and her new shop @therefineryhk in the new PMQ building @PMQHKDesign #PMQIS much love for @BernstockSpeirs bunny ears!
  • Love that I always see the best pieces by Brit designers abroad @nicoll_studio @liger_hk
  • Swash land at @liger_hk Patterson St store #SwashLondon

>> If young London designers come from a tradition of never fearing the subversive, the questionable and the downright perverse, then young Paris-based designers (who aren't two a penny like they are here…) have mostly played by the rules.  When I last wrote about the young French label Jacquemus, I remarked that whilst French houses flourished, young talent doesn't necessarily do the same in Paris.  The tides are changing what with New York's MADE making its debut in Paris and designers like Julien David, Anthony Vaccarello and Olympia Le Tan doing much to inject new face vitality into Paris Fashion Week.  And now we have Jacquemus, a label designed by a very young Simon Porte, a veritable outsider who hails from a small town in the South of France, daring to explore something a little subversive through his collections that come complete with film and ambiant lookbook to set the scene.  From deranged female factory workers to crazed dog lovers, Porte is tapping into parts of the female psyche and coming up with clothes that have few contemporaries to compare to.  They're naive, a little bit slap dash even but at the least, they're saying something that feels personal to Porte.    

Watch the film for his current A/W 12-3 collection Le Sport 90 (available at Opening Ceremony) and you're immersed into this suburban girl listening to her walkman, snogging her boyfriend, experiencing teen angst and all the while looking seductive in the unlikely combinations of oversized pinstripe and silver/neon vinyl.  I'm looking at her running through that street and wondering how the awkwardness of her outfit is looking so damn appealing.  To put it bluntly (and to look at it through my British eyes), she looks like a hot chav.  You may wince at that word and no, it's not very politically correct to be throwing it around but like so many young British designers (particularly in menswear) who have explored the aesthetic upsides of "chav" culture, it's interesting that on the other side of the channel, you have a young designer doing the same thing through his own distinctly French filter.  We all know about the perceptions of glamour and elegance of Paris but the hidden layers of French suburbia feel like unexplored territory, something that Porte seems to be good at articulating in his work at Jacquemus.  

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Comments (15)

  1. Miss Coco says:

    I love it”
    http://WWW.JUST-COCO.COM
    VESTIDO GRATIS Y GRAN SORPRESA!!!

  2. mariposa says:

    Thanks Susie for this well written.
    I learned a lot and enjoyed it
    mariposa-world.blogspot.com

  3. It’s very pleasing that emerging French designers are finally starting to be able to be perceived on the same platforms as their luxury heritage house big brothers and sisters. Being a young designer is always challenging but emerging London designers have it alot easier than most other places in the world. We welcome diversity, creativity and innovation and there are always supportive schemes which young designers can apply to or online business which are always on hand to help promote a growing label. A very good collection from Jacquemus and a lovely accompanying film. Hope Porte has as much luck as he would do in London!

  4. dora moutot says:

    I don’t think Jacquemus explores the french chav aesthetic here.
    French chavs = http://images3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20091230182010/desencyclopedie/images/5/53/Racailletrain.jpg
    His video looks like an old 90′s french tv serie. It reminds me “Helene et les Garcons.”
    The music, the shots, the attitude…
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-CqSkIebCI
    But yes, even tough I don’t think this collection is inspired by french suburbia, the video is awesome.
    And french suburbs should definitely be more explored in fashion!
    These kind of details are interesting =
    http://pariskets.free.fr/pics/15/pic_snk_13.jpg
    Take a look at the french gay suburban culture called ” TN kiffeur”.
    A few years ago the “techtonic” suburban subculture, was also very interesting.
    Best,
    Dora.
    http://www.lagazettedumauvaisgout.com

  5. susie_bubble says:

    Hi Dora,
    Thanks for the insight! Of course I was just guesstimating and projecting some influence possibilities. What I find more interesting is that ultimately, Jacquemus is delving into very personal references, things that he was brought up with that don’t come from the fantasist/exotica realm of “I travelled to India” etc etc. It’s even more interesting to see a new wave of French designers coming through who aren’t looking to the obvious for inspiration.
    I like that shot you included – stuff like that is such conventional inspiration for fashion students in London. I feel like over the years, I must have seen at least 20 “chav” inspired collections but it would be cool to see how that plays out across the Channel where this sort of aesthetic also exists – maybe to a lesser extent?
    Susie
    x

  6. Couteau says:

    It’s already been said, but there is nothing French-chav in this video. Genuine yes and primarily for French consumers, as opposed to global-sell-to-asia-Central-Saint-Martins-pseudo-luxury houses.

  7. shesaidsomething says:

    I really cannot get behind the picture where the girl and what is likely a boyfriend is reaching across the table to hit her. Why is that an acceptable fashion editorial topic? It is tasteless.

  8. susie_bubble says:

    Why do you say it’s a collection aimed primarily at French consumers? It sells on Opening Ceremony and they have quite a broad customer base. Or was the comment a general dig at the way fashion houses operate…? I replied to Dora re: French suburbia…. perhaps “chav” was the wrong word – it may not even apply in France, I don’t know. What I meant was that it felt inspired by suburbia, the norm, a gritty realness that perhaps Porte can enlighten us about…

  9. susie_bubble says:

    I think he is reaching out for her because they’re in the middle of a fight…. and she’s pulling away….

  10. Couteau says:

    I meant that in aesthetic and price, it seems to be made with a French girl in mind. Reminds me of the young Agnès b.

  11. Couteau says:

    I was commenting on the brand, not the inspiration for this collection/video, so perhaps it was the wrong comment box!

  12. Lily KG says:

    I have to say, I don’t find the film particularly convincing- the pictures from the film look much better
    http://www.untangleyourspangle.blogspot.com

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