Chloë Sevigny's collections for Opening Ceremony in my head are always somehow intrinsically linked with the plethora of characters that she has embodied over the years in addition to her eclectic array of style personas. Her fifth collection for Opening Ceremony very much like vintage 1995 Chloë, revisiting her Sassy years and her infamous debut in Harmony Korine's Kids. Her collections for Opening Ceremony have always had inflections of the nineties vibes that she has made her style past iconic. This A/W 13-4 collection though really brought to life some of that Kids-esque nineties-tinged teenage irreverance that dresses girls in stripy tees, thift store aesthetic dresses and kawaii knee socks. Thus far, it's been the presentation highlight of New York Fashion Week as Sevigny took us to her neighbourhood and staged a multi-faceted protest slash performance in St. Marks Church. Sevigny coralled her luminary mates such as Kim Gordon, Lissy Trullie, Bleached and Shannon Fuchness to perform in rotation whilst, what looked to be a street-casted set of girls, gave riot grrrl angry stares in their restless outfits.
I was told by Humberto Leon that Sevigny got heavily involved with the Occupy movement in New York and so the whole collection riffed off of the sixties mode of protest. Read into the Occupy thing too much and you're in danger of questioning whether a collection of mid-priced clothes inspired by a protest against fiscal ineqaulity makes sense. Better to steer towards the more general sixties youthquake emotions that inspire the A-line miniskirts, babydoll dresses and A-line coats in go-go PVC and vinyl. When I hosted a little Q&A session with Sevigny back in October last year at the Opening Ceremony London store, she said that she was inspired by the teenagers walking around her neighbourhood surroundings in spots like Tompkins Square Park and Union Square and so the collection was a mish mash of her current observations of teens today, mixed with the tenacity of the cutesy A-line silhouette that the majority of young girls can get down with. Look a little closer and you copped an eyeful of quirkier details such as the Opening Ceremony logo printed on Emilio Cavallini bodysuits and tights. Recognisable activist iconography such as the ankh, the double cross heart, the Eye of Horus and sweet cherries mingle together in prints, breaking up the found-in-a-charity-shop clothes. Just to retrogade a little futher, Sevigny continued her collaboration with the skate brand Vision to add a boyish dimension to this alltogether girly affair. Monochrome ankle boots, blocky platform mules and sandals as well as some PVC-panelled bow flats, which I'm immediately drawn to just on account of my obsession with all things plastic fantastic.
From the slick n' clean shows held in airy warehouse spaces of the Chelsea area, it was definitely a respite to walk into a presentation with a bit of soul, spirit and a comforting familiarity, that is impossible not to be charmed by.