In the latest issue of Bon (upon a 15 minute read through, my verdict is brilliant - please pick it up), Thomas Tait's S/S 13 is featured on the cover as well as supported by a lengthy feature written by Daniel Bjork. On the subject of Tait being the kind of designer who knows exactly what he wnats in reference to his brand, Tait recalls going to parties or other people's houses as a child and pre-imagining what it would be like and how it would smell and then subsequently being disappointed when his predictions didn't ring true. Now, at the beginning of his momentum-filled design trajectory, he can control pretty much every element. He says "Well, I'm going to pay the bills and I'm going to put the energy into it. I'm taking all the responsibility for it. if it doesn't turn out the way I wanted it to, then why do all of this?"
It's this level of control and pre-meditated precision that gave us what I think is one of the strongest shows this season so far. So much about Tait's work is to do with fabrication, cut and hidden detailing so I will wait a little to learn more about that before I do a longer post. For now though, i give you the beginning of the show, where the carpark of a posh Georgian terrace near Pall Mall was lit up like a Daft Punk performance installation, with jubilant but exacting rainbow panels dancing their way across the vastly long catwalk ceiling. This is very telling of sort of specific approach of Tait. Why bring us all to a cold, unheated car park if it wasn't to faciliate this light extravagaza? Then there's the finale. A gang of girls that wasn't about enticing masses of women to join them in their purposeful strides. Another thing Tait says in the Bon interview is "I never wanted to see something and feel completely comfortable. I do enjoy fashion when I feel a bit insecure about it, when there an element of danger. Not danger as in like motorcycles and leather, but more like being in an unfamiliar territory. That can be very scary for people." This is a collection that straddles between desirability and looking at it from afar with conceptual critic-winning admiration. To achieve both is the ultimate goal and Tait has certainly done that. Like I said though, the proof is all in the fabrics. For now, let's just get very very excited. London has someone supremely talented on their hands. And witnessing a show like that uplifts the spirit and restores faith that there designers are still aspiring for the new and the unfamiliar. Catch me at the end of this vid. I sound like a cheeseball but I said it anyway - "THAT was a show."