• Fashion Revolution Day begins @fash_rev Will be asking throughout the day - who made your clothes?  Hope everyone joins in! #InsideOut (pic via @gettyfashion)
  • It was announced a while ago but wanted to say how happy I am to have been asked to select Dress of the Year 2013 at Fashion Museum in Bath. My choice was this @christopherkanestudio SS13 beauty.
  • Love this concertina beach scene print on @marios_official tote available at @therefineryhk now! #PMQIS
  • Congrats to my cousin @elizabethlauldn and her new shop @therefineryhk in the new PMQ building @PMQHKDesign #PMQIS much love for @BernstockSpeirs bunny ears!
  • Love that I always see the best pieces by Brit designers abroad @nicoll_studio @liger_hk

In my Bubble and Speak (PUN of the year, no?) article for Business of Fashion, bigging up the debut of London College of Fashion MA's show at LFW, I mentioned the overall editing of students that both Central Saint Martins and LCF, when presenting their MA shows.  I personally don't mind watching twenty-something students at a show and marking off page after page in a run of show, with mental gold stars but I've also seen people in the front row silently nodding off when the show begins to drag on a bit.  Ask the audience who they liked out of the show, a week later and they might struggle to reel off any names.  Both college's editing strategies were definitely successful in bringing their star graduates to the forefront, especially at Central Saint Martins, which presented a very textiles-led edit, something of a strongpoint in this year's crop of MA graduates.  It's been two months and I remember everyone who did show.  Mission accomplished.  Impression left.  

At the Central Saint Martins MA exhibition however, I was struck by how many good uns' were left out of the show.  Perhaps they didn't fit into Louise Wilson's pre-conceived journey – which is often what a CSM MA show is; building up in crescendos, going through the subtle and the high octane.  The students that I spoke to seemed to understand this inevitable selection process.  It's not the be all and end all if students aren't selected for the show and at the exhibition, Wilson was talking of some of these candidates already being up for jobs at fashion houses.  I thought a fair few of these non-showing graduates were too good to pass up so I've rounded them up here on the blog.   

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Katherine Jones – Give me Frida Kahlo as an inspiration and I'm sold.  Especially since I'm lingering over memories of visiting her casa in Mexico City last year and wafting around in cross-stitch embroidered dresses.  Katherine (or Katie) Jones combined her love of traditional crochet with elements of Kahlo's fiercely indigenous attire, lifting the stripe formations rather than anything overtly Mexican.  It was really a technical excercise of tone, texture and crochet stitch techniques, which to me felt anything but homespun.

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Helen Price – I've followed Helen Price's work from when she was studying BA at Central Saint Martins so it's nice to see her culminative MA work, which feels like a continuation of what she was investigating and working on in her BA.  Using square mesh fabric, she weaves and knits up her yarn into a scribbled up storm, emulating felt tip or crayon scribbles on a page.  Texture is built up in tufted formations and whilst the effect appears haphazard, the mapping out of her yarn scrawling is anything but, as her techniques are applied with deft precision.  

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Caitlin Price – It's fair to say that every year of fashion students in almost every school in Britain produces one, inspired by "street" culture.  Caitlin Price's collection though is far more nuanced than just a surface-level reproduction of nostalgia-tinted street tribes.  The simplicity and starkness of street uniforms are enrichened with yard and yards of navy and white satin, and recognisable garments like bomber jackets or tracksuit bottoms are exaggerated with gathers of fabric that are sometimes detachable.  It's definitely an interesting play on silhouette but more importantly, how Price interprets those all-too-familiar references is what's intriguing.  

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Carey Ellis – There were so many brilliant textiles graduates from this year and Carey Ellis is definitely another one.  Inspired by a Pablo Picasso painting, Ellis worked on picking out the colours and textures of the abstract figures and translating them on to the body.  The collection was mainly anchored by hand-dyed fringing to mimic the densely dotted pattern in the painting, which provides movement in the pieces, best seen in this film.  Again, what appears to be deceptively simple is actually a highly laborious process of lining up the hand-dyed strands to achieve the correct visual effect.     

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Jaeyeon Lee – I loved the look of Jaeyeon Lee's flat felt forms on the rails and it gets even more interesting when you find out that they were actually inspired by a rare book about scarecrows.  So Lee created a reduced graphic looking wooden trompe l'oeil scarecrow, on which to hang flat pieces of felt clothing.  The effect is that it looks as though clothes are flying onto the body quite incidentally, hitting you with graphic garment shapes in primary-coloured felt or pinstripe over gauzy white ethereal beings.  It's an evocative juxtaposition when you look at the lookbook images.  

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Eeva Suorlahti – Finally, I have a bit of a mystery wildcard with Eeva Suorlahti who is another textiles graduate.  There were no pieces of clothing as such on display at the exhibition but her portfolio and textiles samples made me very curious about her aesthetic.  Looking at the idea of ceremonial decoration and ostentatious displays of adornment, Suorlahti seems to have experimented with different layered fringing and tassel effects.  Perhaps her final pieces weren't there for a reason but in any case, just seeing the workings of textiles experimentation was enough to pique a texture fiend such as myself.  You could see them in so many instances, worked into garments.  Hopefully we'll see more from Suorlahti in the future.  

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Comments (10)

  1. M a r t a says:

    I really like all that pics. Are great and so original.
    http://www.martasfashiondiary.com/

  2. These are all truly amazing pieces of art! I love the first collection!
    http://www.queenofmayhem.com

  3. Such amazing photos of such amazing….works of art
    http://mayathapapaya.tumblr.com

  4. CarolinaBK says:

    This is definitely fabulous!!
    Have a look at London based womenswear designer LULU LIU on http://www.lulu-liu.com/
    and vitis the facebook page https://www.facebook.com/lululiulondon?fref=ts
    ;)
    Contact us for having a lookbook!
    http://carolinabin.com/

  5. Great post, love this. So many talented designers, I think we will be hearing from a few of them in the future.

  6. Love the work of Helen Price.. makes me want to start with handicraft again. So rare and unique.. with a lovely sense of colour too. Inspiring report! Thank you!

  7. The Provoker says:

    The first few knitted pieces reminds me a bit of Prada SS11 collection with all the stripes, I like the interpretation. And love all the big shapes and silhouettes that are sort of a ‘london fashion graduation show’ necessity, I think the in-school term for it is ‘generous’ lol.
    xx The Provoker
    http://www.the-provoker.com/2013/04/perspex-tive.html

  8. Kirit Dave says:

    This is fabulous and so inspiratnal.

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