When the folks at Dior called me up to let me know that there would be a third couture show (to add to the usual two) because they had especially invited, flown in and put up sixty-eight fashion students from sixteen colleges from all around the world to attend the show, I think I might have audibly shrieked.  I’m no fashion student but I couldn’t contain my excitement on their behalf because this was really an unprecedented move by any big maison to open up their doors in this way to “spread the word about the magic of haute couture”.  When I was asked whether I would like to experience their Dior rêve with some of the students, in particular the ones from London, the answer was of course “Hell, YES!”  I can’t emphasise enough how generous an opportunity this is on the part of Dior, without any particular business motivation other than to communicate and educate what haute couture is all about and why it is something so special in an increasingly watered down mass of product in the fashion world.  In addition to seeing the show, the students were also given tours around the haute couture ateliers, to watch the petites mains at work.  Nobody has ever been given access to the ateliers on the day before the show and here were sixty-eight students walking through cutting tables, mannequins and busy-bee artisans in white coats, followed by camera crews and nosy bloggers (guilty).  Before the show, they also attended lectures about the house of Dior and were given the chance to meet key employees from the other LVMH houses.  All in all, a fashion student’s dream – a sanctioned invitation to a fashion show where normally they might have gatecrashed their way in and a prime opportunity to get one’s foot in the door at maison.

My first question was how the students were selected in the first place.  Dior chose the colleges internally but left the responsibility to the respective tutors.  From London, Central Saint Martins, London College of Fashion, Westminster, Conde Nast College and Royal College of Art were the lucky participants and globally, Parson’s, Bunka and Instituto Marangoni to name a few were in the mix.  When I asked Matthew Bovan, James Buck and Alexander Krantz, who have all started the MA course at CSM (who I shadowed for a separate write-up on this Dior student experience for Dazed Digital), how Louise Wilson picked them, they shrugged and couldn’t really pinpoint a reason.  Not to big up the cliche but as a trio, the CSM kids stood out from the rest of the students just by their attire and the video crew documenting the whole shebang seemed to gravitate towards them.

I plucked up enough courage to go up to one of my personal heroes Walter van Beirendonck, who was with his two fourth year students from the Royal Academy of Antwerp, to ask how he selected them and he explained that he chose people who had a possible synergy with Dior.  At MA level, prospective placement and employment is not far away and it’s interesting to see students and tutors walking around the offices of Dior, looking at it as a prospective place of employment.

“Surreal” and “OH MY GOD!” were the words uttered by the students when asked how they reacted when they found out they were going on this trip (although it wasn’t clear up until the last minute exactly how extensive the trip was).  Group by group (separated by country and college) students with their equally excited tutors shuffled in to the Dior headquarters to get their name badges.  If Dior ever set itself up as a by appointment museum they would ace it because the organisation level was pretty amazing.

IMG_8075James Buck, Matthew Bovan and Alexander Krantz from Central Saint Martins

We were asked to be quiet as we moved through the ateliers, first the “flou” dressmaking room and then the “tailleur” tailoring room.  At that point we had not yet seen the show so we were only seeing glimpses of garments being altered or finished.  Fittings were taking place elsewhere with Raf Simons.  The intricate cutwork and delicate embroidery would all make a whole lot of sense when it was later revealed that the collection was really dedicated to the work of the atelier and their revered skills.  These tireless artisans in the atelier also got to see the third extra show put on for the students.  What struck me was the number of people dedicated to each garment.  Wearing white lab coats and a serious expression, two or three people would be working on a dress, concentration unbroken even by a rabble of students and cameras.  It’s the sheer quantity of people and their skill and experience that produces such finessed and special work.  Even without seeing the silhouettes in full you could see that in detail.

Matthew from CSM remarked that it was so different seeing the embroideries up close as so much of the detail is lost in images onlune, even with the ultra zoomed shots.  It struck me that this was largely a generation that had experienced unprecedented access to fashion online and that increasingly they were missing out on tactile touch and firsthand experience.  Especially when it comes to something that is seemingly as intangible as haute couture at Dior.

I was told that Dior really just wanted to share the magic of haute couture with the future of the fashion industry – to make them understand the full scale of works that goes on behind the scene. Seeing the show gives the students a perspective that are normally only afforded to select press and clients. Most students said they had attended shows before but none at the level of Dior. Beyond creating a democratic and inclusive environment for this couture show, the bigger picture is that we are still questioning the future of haute couture. Can it grow? Is it a viable and sustainable business? Will those petites mains have a future twenty years down the line when these students might be senior creative directors up at houses or helming their own labels. Yes, it’s a two day magical jolly for the students taking them out of the doldrums of college but the way that haute couture operates might linger on their minds – the way that ateliers strive for absolute technical perfection without being constrained by cost or time. In a fashion world where speed, product and profit matters, it’s an idyllic sentiment to take away.

IMG_8083

IMG_8097

IMG_8104

IMG_8109

IMG_8117

IMG_8125

IMG_8132

IMG_8134

IMG_8145

IMG_8152

IMG_8154

IMG_8161

IMG_8162

IMG_8164

IMG_8165

IMG_8169

IMG_8174 James’ handbag tied with a Dior ribbon

Another part of the answer to how haute couture is moving forward can be found in the Dior SS14 couture collection itself. Admittedly I’ve been a fan from the beginning but the last few couture and ready to wear collections have seen Raf being….well more Raf in his approach at Dior. There is something less forced and tentative with what he is doing now. In contrast to the last couture collection which had a lot going on in its narrative and execution, this one was in Simons’ words more “abstract”. In a sculpted space that felt meditative and intimate, Simons explored the private side to a woman and the relationship between client and atelier hands. This wasn’t a simple homage to craftsmanship. That’s a given. Instead, technical supremacy in all manner of cutwork married up with an emotional connection to the clothes. The slits and circular cut outs read like sensual peeks into a woman’s mind. The surreal dreamscapes depicting a woman on top of an unknown planet are imbued with meaning as well as technical proficiency. I could go on and on but I guess the point is with this one is that craft overrides concept. Hence why I’m glad that I along with the sixty-eight students got to see the ateliers and join up the hands, needle and thread with what we saw on the runway.

Oh and hello to what was at the time I think couture’s first pair of trainers (until Chanel today happened of course). Obviously they make me jump for joy. Or literally I can jump for joy. Or run. Or skip. Whatever.

IMG_8241

IMG_8416

IMG_8421

IMG_8246

IMG_8247

IMG_8258

IMG_8431

IMG_8434

IMG_8435

IMG_8260

IMG_8443

IMG_8277

IMG_8446

IMG_8279

IMG_8449

IMG_8453

IMG_8455

IMG_8459

IMG_8467

IMG_8513

IMG_8304

IMG_8312

IMG_8315

IMG_8318

IMG_8323

IMG_8478

IMG_8482

IMG_8485

IMG_8347

IMG_8488

IMG_8495

IMG_8496

IMG_8362

IMG_8375

IMG_8381

IMG_8505

IMG_8389

IMG_8507

IMG_8517

After the show, the students were invites to go backstage to see the clothes up close and in some cases meet Simons. Some even got his autograph and he happily obliged. Of course Simons was once a professor at the Applied Arts School in Vienna. He, compared to most creative directors appreciates the value of firsthand experience for a student’s benefit. Some of the students remarked that they didn’t think there would be this level of access. Journalists were also curious to know how the whole initiative was for them and some faced their first experience of the media. As they boarded the bus to take them to a dinner to round off their trip, you wondered which of them would have the tenacity and talent to stay for the long haul. In a week when we celebrate fashion’s greats, it was wonderful to be mindful of what the future holds.

raf

IMG_8520

Comments (41)

  1. Charlotte says:

    Amazing dresses at the show! And how lucky are those students! What a dream come true.

    http://chaloth.se

  2. Charlotte says:

    Oh wow, what an incredible opportunity, it’s so good to see companies taking an active interest! Beautiful photographs too, the details are just amazing!

  3. Kiri says:

    I can’t thank you enough for releasing this post today. And I love hearing about the student show that Dior held. I knew about this show when I wrote my Dior post last night (Australian time) and I released it today. It was great to then come over here and see a detailed account of the student show and see behind the scenes shots and your photos of the actual show.

    I think it’s so great of Dior to include students to open up the world of couture; I can especially appreciate this move as I am myself trying to gain access to fashion weeks this year for the first time.

    It looks like you had great fun.
    I really like the blue lit shot of the handbag with Dior ribbon on it to.
    X
    Kiri
    http://www.fashionblender.com.au
    http://www.facebook.com/FashionBlender

  4. What an amazing opportunity, I can remember blogging my way in to shows back in the day. The clothes are beautiful and the workmanship outstanding.

  5. What an incredible opportunity! Thanks for sharing the close-ups. Absolutely breathtaking.

  6. Kelly says:

    What an amazing opportunity! I cannot imagine being in the presence of the masterminds behind such beautiful couture. I’m so glad you took such close detail shots, without them you don’t notice the extreme attention to detail and care that goes into each piece. Amazing!!

    xoxo
    Kelly
    http://www.dreaminlace.com

  7. The Provoker says:

    I instantly recognized seeing those guys from my school. Yes, Dior is very connected with CSM, many students go to Dior during their placement year, I have a few classmates there as well. I didn’t know about them opening up to inviting so many students to the show but I’m glad that such a big maison is taking the lead to connect with students, how generous of them. I also think it’s because fashion students really do contribute a lot of GREAT ideas and inspirations for houses, that they’re highly valued for their injection of youth, culture, rebellion, and super personal style. In a way, it’s a great marraige, students need the money, houses need the ideas, symbiosis.

    http://www.the-provoker.com/2014/01/old-habits-new-neutrals.html

  8. Silke says:

    Great post! I´ve enjoyed reading it, thanks so much for all this interesting info and the shots are amazing! Dior is a fantastic brand

  9. Sophia says:

    What a fantastic opportunity. Congratulations!

    http://www.girlinmenswear.com

  10. sasa says:

    Love all the pictures. The Christian Dior runway is just amazing<3

    http://www.shallwesasa.com

  11. So great to actually see the process! :) Thank you Susie!

    ANDREA

  12. Bei Na Wei says:

    This article made me swoon, what an incredible opportunity to actually feel the intensity of craftsmanship that does into these gowns. Thanks so much for sharing this experience, I’m definitely dreaming bigger now.

  13. Elizabeth says:

    Such beautiful fabrics and designs, thanks for sharing lovely.

    Elizabeth x

    http://www.candyflosscurlscupcakesandcouture.com

  14. very nice!!!!!!!:)stunning post! Such beautiful designs

  15. outstanding article ! All these looks and designs are amazing

  16. Derki says:

    Wow! What a great post! I love this blog because it always post fantastic information about fashion, I enjoyed it a lot reading this article.

  17. SGH says:

    No intention to be mean, honestly, (I am really appreciative of your blog and the topics you chose to write about), but it would have maybe been nice to see some of the other students chosen or hear what they had to say. Were they just not as interesting as the CSM trio?

    • stylebubble says:

      I was tasked to follow one group of students for Dazed so it wasn’t exactly my call. With the way the groups were split up, you couldn’t go around with everyone and you had to put in a media request beforehand to speak to other students. I did speak to students from RCA, Westminster and LCF as well and if you read it properly, I spoke to other tutors as well.

      • SGH says:

        I didn´t know it was so strictly segregated, sorry. I read that you spoke to other tutors and that left me wandering wether you spoke to a lot of others and decided to leave it out or not. Thanx for the reply and the info.

  18. KIRARIK says:

    Great Post – I love to see them work, the sneak peek behind the curtain.

    Visit my new Design/Decor Blog: http://kiraaarik.blogspot.ch/

  19. Obsessing over those trainers. Wishing for a pair (wishes dont come true in this particular case!)

    http://www.hermindbloggles.blogspot.com

  20. Prin says:

    Wow what an amazing post, I love Dior. My favorite is the first white dress. <3

    http://www.princesskonakei.com/

  21. Indiga says:

    Love to see the process behind, amazing post full of rich content!

  22. Chloe says:

    CAN I JUST GO TO FASHION SCHOOL ALREADY?!!?! That looks like a field trip from my most unrealistic yet fantastic dream!!!!!!!! And the collection looks sosososososo pretty!
    http://rhinestonemoon.blogspot.com/

  23. Personalize custom embroidered hats & visors. Monogrammed hats & visors can be personalized with logo embroidery online.
    http://www.universityfashions.com

  24. […] week, Dior invited fashion students to a tour of the ateliers and a special viewing of the haute couture S/S 2014 […]

  25. shameak says:

    Loving the full length multi colour coat http://www.3starsabove.com/

  26. Hina says:

    Nice Collection you have….these are really beautiful and soooo much nice….this site is really good and effective fashion information.

  27. Ashleigh says:

    wow that is so exciting, seeing students being nurtured is the most uplifting thing

  28. Patti says:

    I think the fabrics are interesting ….. But sometimes they remind me of over creative shower curtains …. Saw the clothes in store ….. John Galliano was repetitive , but he made stunning images …. I just don’t get this whole thing … Contemporary Couture ??? I think that Gareth Pugh or Rick Owens would put Dior in it’s rightful status .. Want to love Raf , but each collection seems more hastily put together than the last ….. Stared at the pret-a-porter in the window display … With a fashion graduate – I’m over complaining , but she said “the darts are so badly displayed and the spring hooks on the front are cheap looking!” …. Love and adore the esthetic Raf’s doing , I think the clothes are like unfinished Armani samples …… Sorry Suzy …… If you were sometimes more discerning in your choice of subject , I’d take you more seriously ….

  29. Rini Kundu says:

    Stunning fabrics! So intricate and modern yet has the air of tradition and elegance! Perfect.

  30. Rini Kundu says:

    Stunning fabrics! So intricate and modern yet has the air of tradition and elegance! Perfect. http://www.thestylelogbook.com

  31. […] city, let’s talk about these ready to wear trainer beauties, which were developed from the spring couture collection shown in January. These were in the ready to wear showroom for A/W 14-5 which means, sometime in […]

  32. […] city, let’s talk about these ready to wear trainer beauties, which were developed from the spring couture collection shown in January. These were in the ready to wear showroom for A/W 14-5 which means, sometime in […]

  33. Celia says:

    I absolutely love this new Dior collection. I hope that this will hopefully happen to me when I start at London College of Fashion (in my dreams) in two years!

    http://www.the-untitled-blog-01.blogspot.com

    :))))

  34. thea says:

    a lovely dream

Comment below